The Way to Get Food Away Antique Wood Furniture

If food has spilled on your classic wood furniture, do not forget that the longer the food sits in place, the more difficult it’s to eliminate. If that wooden dining room table is an antique or a family room, using even a gentle abrasive or substance on it’s out of the question, as the cleaning procedure may cause more damage than good. Soft methods eliminate even the most stubborn foods from furniture, though it might take several tries or techniques to completely eliminate the food remains.

Place several ice cubes in a zippered plastic bag to treat greasy food residue on wooden furniture. Set the bag of ice directly over the moist fatty area until the place hardens. Scrape away as much of the debris as you can with the advantage of a plastic knife or a piece of card stock. If any grease remains, set a folded cotton fabric over the place and iron it on a low setting for several seconds until the cloth lifts away the dirt.

Eliminate milk or food that’s been left to dry on your classic piece by wiping it gently with a soft cloth, working from the outside edges toward the middle of the material. Dab a bit of oil soap on a slightly damp cloth or sponge to loosen the rest of the food residue. Wipe it clean with a fresh damp cloth or sponge, drying out the wood immediately afterwards with yet another fabric.

Eliminate Cracked or gummy food spills, like honey or molasses, by scratching up as much of it as you can with a plastic knife or pastry knife, operating from the outside in, when the substance is currently somewhat hard. If not, blot with a damp sponge, then again working toward the middle. Place a sandwich bag of ice cubes over the region and scrape on the material once it stinks. Eliminate any remaining residue by placing a little hot water on a soft cloth, then placing the fabric over the drip until the cloth liquefies. Dab it away, working toward the middle. Wipe clean with fresh damp cloth, then dry the area instantly.

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The Way to Refinish Brazilian Walnut Wood

When it comes to timber, Brazilian walnut ranks close to the top on the hardness scale. Called an exotic species, it’s tougher than oak or maple. It is used on specialty items like knobs, handles, medallions, tables, stair treads and handrails, plaques, veneer and flooring. The deep rich texture and colour of Brazilian walnut is comparable to teak, and for this reason, usually doesn’t need blot.

The Stripper

Chemical strippers are caustic. Don rubber gloves, breathing and eye protection and put down a dropcloth before you start. Apply an even coat of chemical stripper to the timber with a brush. Permit the stripper to gel the initial end and start scraping the finish off with a level stick. Do not use sharp tools since they can scrape. Scrape the finish off from the inside out. Use sharpened sticks to get inside tight spaces and corners. Fold a sheet of sandpaper into a sharp edge to receive gelled finish out of tight spots.

Sand Softly

Because this is a refinishing task the surface of the walnut has previously been sanded, so go straight to higher-grit sandpapers to your last prep before completing. Orbital sanders can leave small swirls in walnut, whilst belt sanders depart lines, therefore sand the surface of the walnut employing a hand block with 180-grit sandpaper. It is more work, but pays off in the long run. Sand the wood smooth with strokes parallel with the grain. Brazilian walnut is tough and will withstand the attempt so be patient. It should produce a fine powder during sanding. If the hand block begins to slide or polish the timber, change the paper. Brazilian walnut can be slightly fatty, therefore wipe the surface using a cloth dampened with acetone to clean off the tacky feel and remove dust or residue. Permit the wood to dry.

To Seal or Not to Seal

Brazilian walnut is prized because of its colour and texture and doesn’t need blot. But, oil-based stain is sometimes employed as a sealer or to tint the walnut marginally. Choose a colour that you prefer, wipe it liberally and wash it off. Oil stain takes up to 72 hours to cure, so follow label instructions and give it considerable time. If you skip the stain, apply a coat of sealer to the walnut with a soft brush. Sealer dries fast so work accordingly using strokes parallel with the grain to cover the timber until it dries.

Gloss or Satin

Satin polyurethane works well on Brazilian walnut. Other options include varnish or lacquer. Glossy clear coats detract from the beauty of walnut, but should you want, gloss is also an option. Apply a single coat of the clear finish to the wood with a soft brush with strokes parallel with the grain. Permit the finish to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Some goods take days, others just a few hours. When the initial coat is dry, apply a couple of additional coats using strokes parallel with the grain. Two coats are often adequate, but additional coats can be applied if desired to get a deeper appearance.

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Washing Windows With Vinegar and Ammonia

Washing windows can leave streaks, but vinegar and chlorine are successful streak-free cleansers. Ammonia is a powerful cleanser but because of its hefty fumes and ability to soften skin, it also requires safety precautions. Vinegar is nontoxic and won’t burn skin. Even though some people today find the odor of vinegar unpleasant, it dissipates as it dissolves.

Vinegar

Vinegar’s acidity cuts through grease. This all-natural cleaner is inexpensive and available at any supermarket. After washing the windows with soap and water to remove excessive dirt, then make a spray cleaner by inserting two tablespoons distilled white vinegar to 1 quart water in a spray bottle. Spray it on the windows, then allow it to sit for a minute or two, then wipe the window using a squeegee or microfiber fabric to prevent stripes.

Ammonia

Ammonia, a base, cuts through grease from dissolving fatty acids. Because of its strong fumes, you must adequately ventilate the room, meaning opening the windows as soon as you have washed them or turning to a fan. You’ll also need rubber gloves to protect your skin and a face mask to filter fumes. Mix ammonia at precisely the same ratio as vinegar — two tablespoon per gallon of water. If desired, blend 1 tablespoon ammonia and one tablespoon vinegar with the water rather.

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How to Wash Shoe Polish Stains From Vinyl Floors

Vinyl functions as a durable floor covering which is resistant to spills and stains, provided that the offending material is washed straight away. This type of flooring is more prone to scuffs and marks from rubber shoe soles and shoe shine, however. An eraser comes to the rescue to remove shoe shine, rendering the floor mark-free once more.

Erase People Scuffs

An eraser made to wipe away pencil marks also erases shoe shine scuffs on vinyl flooring. First, blot the area with a paper towel in the event the scuff is fresh, since a few of the polish may transfer over to the paper. Rub gently using the paper towel, rubbing at the direction of this scuff, rather than over it, to avoid spreading it. Once you’ve removed as much as you can using the paper towel, rub the region with a large eraser until the scuff evaporates. If a little shoe polish residue remains, pour a small amount of baby oil above the mark, then let it sit for 20 minutes or so, then rub away with a soft cloth.

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How to Repair a Leak Within an Air Mattress Using a Hot Glue Gun

The best way to repair a hole in a leaky vinyl air mattress is using a repair kit created for the item, but warm glue can stop the air leakage and temporarily repair the harm in a crisis. After locating the hole in the bed, it is ideal to use a low-temp glue gun to stop damage to the plastic, which is a form of plastic.

Inflate the bed as much as you can and listen for escaping air around the seams and all over the surface to find the hole. If you can’t hear any escaping air, dip a kitchen sponge into a soapy water solution and then rub the sponge gently above the mattress surface, then starting with the seams, then to observe where bubbles form. Wipe the bed dry using a soft cloth and mark the hole using a bit of tape or a marker.

Insert a glue stick into a low-temp glue gun. Plug the glue gun in and allow it to fully heat up. Remove any tape from the hole at the air mattress in the event that you used it to mark the spot.

Squeeze the face of this glue gun and gently put a small dab of hot glue over the hole to temporarily patch it up.

Allow the hot glue to fully dry before using the air mattress again.

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High Desert Plants That Grow on a chain-link Fence

In general, the phrase “high desert” identifies desert regions that are situated inland at high elevations. Even though these regions are dry, they do receive more precipitation than lesser lying desert regions and are not quite as alluring. In California, the high desert goes to the geographic region northeast of the San Gabriel Mountains. Gardeners living in California’s high desert or in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 and 9 can develop several climbing high desert plants to cover unsightly chain link fences. Many of these climbing plants are vines, but a few are shrubs with vine-like tendencies.

Evergreens and Semievergreens

Primrose jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi), yellow orchid vine (Mascagnia macroptera) along with pink trumpet vine (Podranea ricasoliana) are excellent options for evergreen vines to cover a fence. Primrose jasmine offers yellow flowers in late winter and spring, while the yellow orchid vine blossoms in late spring and early summer. Planting these two together generates an evergreen fence with yellow flowers continuously from late winter to early summer. The pink trumpet vine flowers in late summer and fall along with its blossoms have a light, pleasing scent. The yellow orchid and pink trumpet vines are semievergreen and might die back temporarily during cold winters. All these plants do best in full sun.

Year-Round Flowers

For year-round blossoms, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis) is just a vine-like shrub that likes full sun or part shade in exceedingly hot areas, requires very little water once established and comes in a wide array of bright colors. However, bougainvillea includes thorns and might not be suitable for fences near sidewalks or heavily traveled areas. A thorn-free option for flower lovers with a fence in full sun is the potato vine (Solanum jasminoides), which provides white flowers and purplish green foliage annually when grown in a frost free environment. Cape honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis) also flowers during the year. As an additional bonus, the vibrant red-orange blossoms of the cape honeysuckle will attract hummingbirds to your garden.

Low Litter

If your fence is close to a pool, you will want plants that won’t fall a whole lot of leaves or spent flowers which shake pool filters and stick to wet bare feet. Low litter plants are also a wise option for fences next to walkways, so guests don’t drag messy plant components into your home. Low litter options include grape ivy (Cissus trifoliata) and lilac vine (Hardenbergia violacea). Grape ivy is semievergreen and although not showy, offers attractive green foliage and will grow in full sunlight in addition to deep shade. Lilac vine is a evergreen shrub-like plant that can climb fences and produce purple flower clusters in the winter and spring. The evergreen primrose jasmine and year old flowering potato vine also create hardly any litter.

Two Noteworthy Plants

Even though they defy categorization, there are two other exceptional options for gardeners wanting to conceal a fence. One is the hacienda creeper (Parthenocissus tricuspidata). Also called Boston ivy, the hacienda creeper is a semievergreen vine with glossy leaves and attractive leaf color options. In areas where the plant will not lose its leaves in the fall, the leaves turn shades of crimson, orange and burgundy in the fall. This is only one of the few climbers that can be grown in the high desert which produces such stunning fall color reliably. Another option is Lady Banks’ rose (Rosa banksiae). Although this plant isn’t particular to the high desert climate, it will not grow well there. This rose is an appealing, vigorous evergreen with white or pale yellow flowers and requires hardly any attention or water, making it perfect for active gardeners on the move.

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The Best Ways to Trim a Mulberry Tree

Mulberry trees (Morus spp.) Are notoriously famous for dropping staining fruits onto walkways and neighboring vehicles using their long, outstretched branches. Trimming your mulberry tree looks like a sensible solution, but these deciduous trees can’t tolerate extensive pruning without harming their general wellness. The most effective ways to trim a mulberry tree include strategic branch removal and cutting the limbs during the period.

Timing

The winter dormancy period lets you trim the mulberry tree when it isn’t actively growing. Since the tree is deciduous, you readily find the branches within the tree’s canopy to get an accurate survey of essential pruning. Should you wait to trim the tree during the spring and summer, then you can’t observe the limbs that might need cutting since the leaf blocks the view. In fact, the summertime heat leads to pruning damage, particularly together with the bark. Damaged and sunburned bark from trimming allows pests and pathogens to further aggravate the vulnerable cuts.

Limited Trimming

Your trimming method needs to be limited to dead, diseased and crossed branches. Mulberry trees have a tendency to bleed at the cutting edge sites, which makes them vulnerable to pressure and growth stunting; the winter dormancy period typically has diminished bleeding throughout pruning sessions. Try to avoid cutting the main branches unless they are especially damaged from winds or disease. Twisted lateral branches that stretch too much from the central leader have to be trimmed so that the stronger, main limbs have more energy to get leaf, flowering and fruiting procedures.

Cut Size

Since the mulberry tree still bleeds even during the period, your trimming cuts will need to be smaller than 2 inches. Cuts larger than 2 inches over the branches create lacerations that cannot heal because the bleeding keeps the wound open and fresh. Pathogens and insects input the mulberry tree freely and cause widespread harm and growth stunting. Should you restrict your trimming to damaged limbs close to the drip line, then your cuts are naturally smaller than 2 inches and the tree has a good chance at recovery quickly.

Prevent Pollarding

Reducing nearly all new growth every one or two years is called pollarding. Although this pruning process retains the mulberry at a manageable size, it effectively reduces the tree’s lifespan. New growth stipulates the developing area for fruits every year. Should you remove the new branches consistently, the tree has limited fruiting or none at all. Avoiding any pollarding process and limiting your pruning to only several branches throughout the dormant period preserves your mulberry tree’s lifespan and wellness.

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Tall Bushes for Privacy Above Fence

Tall bushes make excellent privacy displays above a fence. Bushes not just block the line of sight to your home or lawn, they are also able to dampen noise from traffic or neighbors. The best bushes for solitude are evergreens since they will have foliage year-round. Deciduous bushes don’t provide as much solitude as evergreens during winter, but they are more likely to have vibrant foliage or spring flowers than evergreens.

Boxwood

Boxwoods (Buxus sempervirens) are extremely popular shrubs because of their dense, yards. They are also quite simple to prune into pretty much any shape, making them perfect for hedging. Boxwoods grow nicely in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9 plus they prefer full sun. Common boxwoods can grow up to 20 feet tall, while Korean boxwoods and other varieties reach heights of anywhere between 2 and 9 feet.

English Laurel

English laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a fast-growing evergreen tree or shrub. It grows well in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9 and takes decent soil drainage. Many gardeners like English laurel because of its fragrant white flowers in early summer and spring. It has narrow and long leaves, which can be occasionally glossy. This plant can grow up to 30 feet tall, though smaller varieties like the ‘zabeliana’ don’t grow taller than 6 feet.

Grandiflora Rose

Grandiflora roses (Rosa grandiflora) are large shrub roses with vibrant flower clusters. They grow best in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. Based on the variety, they could reach heights of around ten feet, making them exceptional privacy screens. 1 drawback of roses as solitude bushes is they lose their leaves and also supply less solitude during winter.

American Holly

American holly (Ilex opaca) rises up to 50 feet tall as a tree, but gardeners may also prune it to a more compact privacy hedge. It grows best in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9, but it can tolerate slightly warmer zones in temperate Mediterranean climates. Holly is a classic vacation plant with glossy leaves and red berries. It prefers full or partial sun and slightly acidic soils with adequate drainage. Holly bushes remain green year round and also have dense foliage, which makes a superb privacy screen.

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What's the Natural Way to Kill Canna Bulbs Already in the Ground?

Canna is a genus of tropical plants that contains about 10 species. The plants, which develop from tuberous rhizomes instead of real bulbs, are broadly used as ornamentals, with most popular hybrid varieties sturdy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 though 11. In areas that have cold winters, cannas are treated as annuals, with the rhizomes lifted and stored at the end of each growing season and replanted at the beginning of the next growing season. Killing in-ground canna rhizomes isn’t difficult.

First Steps

Before ruining your cannas, consider why you would like to achieve that. If they’re healthy and are in a garden area where you wish to plant something else, consider moving them or growing them in containers. Should you decide you don’t need cannas on your garden or don’t have room for them, then get the word out to gardening friends or gardening classes. Other gardeners may be delighted to dig up the cannas and provide them good homes elsewhere.

Elimination

The simplest way to get rid of cannas that are already at the ground — particularly if they’re in a committed plant bed — would be to smother them. This way is done best at the end of the growing season, but it might be performed at any given moment. If foliage is present on the cannas, cut it off at ground level. Cover the cannas’ area with landscape fabric or at least a 2-inch thick layer of paper. Cover the landscape fabric or paper with a layer of organic mulch. Check regularly for signs of new growth; if it appears, remove it at ground level.

MIxed Borders

In case the cannas are in crowded combined beds or borders, smothering them might not be an alternative. In these tight situations, digging is the only way to get the cannas out of the ground. Use a sharp-pointed trowel to dig beneath the rhizomes, taking care to find the whole roots out of the ground. Offshoots left behind may sprout new growth. If digging isn’t an option, cut off fresh canna increase and leaf since it appears. Doing this repeatedly probably will kill the plants.

Considerations

Sometimes cannas can be infected with the mosaic virus, which causes misshapen leaves and yellowish streaking or a mosaic pattern on their foliage. The issue has no treatment, and the affected plants have to be destroyed. That circumstance is another instance where it’s ideal to dig up the plants, making sure to get every bit of each rhizome out of the ground. Don’t include the infected plants or rhizomes to your compost pile.

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How Many Apple Trees Do You Want for suitable Pollination?

The several cultivars of apples (Malus domestica) are self-sterile or even self-unfruitful, meaning that they will not bear apples unless they get pollen from a compatible number of apple tree or even a crabapple tree. There are a few apple tree types that may bear fruit without cross-pollination, but they perform poorly and planting them is not recommended. Apples can be grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.

Quantity Of Trees Required

At least 2 apple trees of different varieties that bloom at precisely the same time are needed for good pollination. Planting two McIntosh apple trees will not do. You have to match one McIntosh with a compatible apple number, say a North Spy or Honeycrisp. To guarantee proper pollination, plant two semi-dwarf varieties at least 50 feet apart; plant dwarf trees over 20 feet apart.

Overlapping Bloom Times

Apple blossoms grow in clusters. Apple trees grow more apples if a bee or other insect carrying complementary pollen lands on the most significant blossom in a cluster and the first to start. This is called the king blossom. To guarantee proper pollination, matching trees need to blossom and yield pollen in precisely the same time. To help you choose complementary apple trees, nurseries which sell transplant seedlings typically have charts that record overlapping bloom times for a variety of cultivars. The pollen from crabapple trees often offered as ornamentals will pollinate conventional trees.

Pollinating Variations

Some nurseries listing some apple varieties since being self-fruitful. These include Empire, Gala, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Rome, Jonathan, Jonagold, Liberty and Rome. While these varieties may yield a few apples if they planted alone, it is not recommended; without cross-pollination they generally yield few apples of inferior quality. Some apple varieties produce sterile pollen and cannot be used to pollinate other trees. These include Baldwin, Boskoop, Bramley’s Seedling Crispin, Creston, Gravenstein, Jonagold, Mutsu, Roxbury Russet, Spigold, Stayman, Wealthy and Winesap. Apple varieties that produce sterile pollen require pollen from other trees.

Pollinating a Single Tree

There are two ways to pollinate a solitary apple tree. You can put branches together with open, fresh blossoms of crabapple or complementary apple types in buckets and hang the buckets in the tree. You can also cleft-graft 6- to 8-inch-long branches of a compatible apple number onto your tree.

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How to Landscape for Burglar Defense

A clean landscape and delicate light shining through house windows may be enough to keep a recreational troublemaker from messing around on your premises, but discouraging a burglar intent on breaking in and stealing your valuables demands deliberate landscaping strategies which produce your house less vulnerable. It requires a balanced strategy to create a space which makes it difficult for thieves to sneak in undetected without sacrificing the appeal of an appealing landscape. With careful selection and positioning of plants and landscape components, you can accomplish your house safety goals.

Remove existing large trees and tall, dense hedges that block the view of your dwelling from passersby and neighbors, and supply cover for burglars to lurk. Cut off the low branches of tall, spreading evergreens you prefer to remain; leave a clearance of 5 or more feet in the bottom to the bottom area of dense leaf. Atlas cedars (Cedrus atlantica), which prosper at U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 6 through 9, and additional adult conifers must be pruned during their dormant period, which is winter.

Plant new trees which are deciduous and have moderately dense branching habits. They will provide vertical dimension and visual interest to your property without providing hiding places for burglars. Using multistemmed Heritage River birch trees (Betula nigra “Heritage”), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, is an option; those trees add texture and depth to your landscape with colorful bark and graceful leaf.

Restrict the types of trees planted near the home to those that will not encourage anyone attempting to climb up them to access an upper-story window. Heritage river birches, for example, possess light, arching branches which resist breakage because of stormy weather but can snap under the weight of an individual. Narrow, columnar evergreens, like Italian cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens), which develop in USDA zones 8 to 10, don’t have a width for comprehensive human concealment, and their erect branches discourage climbing.

Prevent potential burglars from lurking near ground-level windows by cutting back overgrown foundation plants or substituting them with shrubs and perennials that reach no higher than the lower edge of window casings. Midnight wine weigela (Weigela florida “Elvera” Midnight Wine), which rises 11/2 to 2 feet tall and has reddish foliage and flowers, is an option in sunny areas; it’s hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9. Low-growing azalea shrubs (Rhododendron spp.) Are suitable for shady places.

Install landscape lighting to light dark corners where burglars could hide. The illumination also will provide nighttime beauty to the landscape. Place eave-mounted lights near garage doors and other entry points to bathe critical areas of the home’s facade in soft light. Establish path lights across the walkway and around porches and patios. Attach motion detectors and automated time switches to control outdoor lighting through the nighttime when you may not want the whole area illuminated but want light to shine brightly when an intruder approaches.

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DIY Garbage Bin Fence

A loose garbage bin or garbage may detracts from the beauty of your yard, however you probably don’t want to conceal it inside either, as that may be unsanitary, unsightly and smelly. If there isn’t adequate space in a garage or shed, a fence to mask the garbage bin place outdoors keeps the unslightly yet necessary bins out of sight and out of mind.

Picket or Privacy Fencing

For maximum invisibility, a garbage bin storage or fence place blends in well with its environment. Staying over fence pickets or sections of privacy fence supply a viable garbage fence to conceal the bins. Even if your yard has no fence, standard picket or privacy fence can form a trash bin fence, painted to match a garage, shed or house color. A hinged gate provides easy access to the bins.

Upcycled Pallets

Old wooden pallets are usually available free from businesses no longer needing them. Lined up horizontally and attached together with scrap boards from broken pallets, these structures become a fence that keeps trash bins separate from the rest of the yard. Hinges attached to the conclusion of one pallet and the conclusion of a lengthy binder wall form a makeshift door for the garbage bin area.

Branches

Thick divisions cut during tree trimming or reclaimed from the ground after storms can create a rustic garbage bin fence. Branches of similar length, arranged vertically, provide the most important structure for the fence. Separate divisions tacked diagonally or horizontally attach the division posts to another. Instead, thin elastic branches, such as willow, are woven between vertical divisions and tied together with jute or natural roping.

Lattice

Lattice provides an easily-manipulated material for a garbage bin fence. Thick posts at every corner are all that’s needed for attaching the lattice function. Ivy or flowering vines planted along the lattice function produces a garden-like air, or the lattice theme can be replicated on a freestanding pergola in another area of the yard.

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Items to Grow in a Greenhouse

Greenhouses lift conventional gardening limits by letting you manipulate natural seasons. This permits you to harvest homegrown strawberries during winter or begin flower seeds earlier than that which nature permits. Things to develop in a greenhouse are defined only by your plant preferences and your gardening goals. Flowers, vegetables, fruits, vegetables and herbs are some of the possibilities of being able to garden year old.

Flowers

Greenhouses are protected growing constructions which insulate your annual and tropical flowers against cold weather. Orchids are generally grown in greenhouses and liked on a rotation basis. When they are in bloom , they brighten homes, and if they’re not in blossom, they are moved back to the greenhouse. In this way, you can enjoy blossoms all months of the year. Geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) Are quintessential annual bedding plants which do not survive winters outside U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. When temperatures dip below 36 degrees F, you can tuck geraniums within a greenhouse during winter and then place them outside the following spring.

Fruits and Vegetables

Some gardeners have greenhouses solely for growing tomatoes year old. With appropriate heating and ventilation systems, tomatoes will produce fruit during cold weather. Citrus trees could be grown outside in containers during warm weather and moved within a greenhouse when temperatures dip below their acceptable threshold amounts, which vary among different cultivars. Avocados are also suitable for greenhouse cultivation. The University of California recommends selecting a smaller number, like “Gwen” or “Pinkerton,” so you won’t have to prune trees to fit in the greenhouse.

Herbs

Herbs can be grown in containers or simply planted directly in the soil floor of a greenhouse, suggests the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. Since diseases have been spread when water splashes onto plants, drip irrigation processes which release moisture directly at soil level are best if you develop herbs in the greenhouse floor. Many herbs, like basil, develop more thickly after you take cuttings and are easily grown year round in a warm greenhouse.

Transplants

Annual bedding plants, like impatiens, petunias and marigolds, can be started from seed and grown to transplant size at a greenhouse. Optimally, seeds must be sown at a soilless mix and kept warm and moist until they germinate. The same greenhouse environment which favors plant development also promotes infection, so regular monitoring for insects and diseases makes early detection of these problems an easier challenge to dominate. When seedlings reach transplant size, and climatic conditions have been okay, gradually acclimate greenhouse plants by placing them in a hierarchical place outside the greenhouse for several days.

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How to Graft a Magnolia Shrub

Many gardeners play the “if only” game with their magnolias at the same time or another: when just this tree flowered as lavishly as that one; even when just this gorgeous vomit were as drought tolerant as that plain one. Grafting enables you to create those dreams reality. Think about a magnolia tree as 2 separate parts, a root system (the rootstock that produces the roots and sizes a plant) along with a shoot system (the scion that produces branches, fruits and flowers). By biologically joining two different cultivars of magnolias into one plant, then you can make the magnolia tree of your dreams.

Prepare a magnolia rootstock in early spring when it is still dormant. Choose a young, branchless whip with a 1/2-inch back diameter. If the whip isn’t established in your garden, plant it in the place you want the tree to grow. Prune off the top half of the whip with clean, disinfected garden.

Prune off a 6- to 8-inch fresh shoot in the magnolia tree you’ve picked for the scion of the new plant. Pick wholesome growth in the prior growing season with a diameter of about 1/2-inch.

Disinfect a sharp knife with denatured alcohol. Slice both the top of the rootstock and the bottom of the scion in a deep soldered. Each slanting edge must measure about 2 1/2 inches long.

Make a second, shorter cut into the rootstock back close to the upper end of the diagonal. Go this cut parallel to the diagonal. Make a similar cut in the scion at the lower end of the diagonal. These cuts will interlock to form a “tongue-and-groove” attachment between both magnolia stems.

Press the diagonal border of the magnolia scion against that of the rootstock. The tall tip of the scion’s diagonal cut ought to rest against the very low end of the rootstock’s diagonal cut. Fit the rootstock “tongue” into the scion’s “groove” cut to lock the pieces together.

Wrap grafting tape across the graft place repeatedly to form a bandage for the cut areas. Use grafting paint to cover and seal the taped area.

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How to Spray Blossoms & Fertilize Fruit Trees

Fruit trees include both colour and produce to a home garden with blossoms in spring and edible fruit in the summer or fall. However, to receive the most fruit and to keep the trees healthy, they require maintenance throughout the year with a proactive collection of sprays. Granulated fertilizers spread in addition to the ground near the tree ought to be enough to get to the roots. Pest and disease sprays should cover the entire tree. Pruning to remove excessive development makes it less difficult to adequately spray fruit trees.

Fertilizer

Determine the demand for nutrients by analyzing new development and the condition of fruit. If the leaves were yellowish in new or summer development was significantly less than 12 inches, nitrogen could be deficient. In case the leaves curl or turn brown, potassium might be deficient. Treat these deficiencies in the late fall before the tree becomes inactive. Calcium deficiencies are noted by delicate spots or cracking on the surface of the fruit and curling leaves. Treat this deficiency the next year before crop.

Gauge the width of the back at least 12 inches above ground level using the tape measure.

Apply 1/8 pounds of nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter for stone fruits like peaches and cherries. Apply 1/10 pounds of nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter for pome fruits like apples and pears. Spread as a granulated fluid on the surface, beginning at least a foot away from the back and extending to at least 1 1/2 times the spread of this tree’s branches.

Distribute 1/5 pounds of potassium per 100 square feet each year. Raise to 3/10 pounds of potassium per 100 square feet if you see a potassium deficiency. Spread as a granulated fluid on the surface, beginning at least a foot away from the back and extending to at least 1 1/2 times the spread of this tree’s branches.

Spray the entire tree with a calcium solution featuring 1 quart of a 12-percent calcium chloride solution diluted in 100 gallons of water. Employ weekly for the last 3 weeks before crop to get cherries, five programs from June through August for apples, and four programs from June through August for pears.

Pest and Disease Control

Cut out all dead wood from the tree with pruners and remove fallen fruit from the ground. These provide insects and diseases a place to thrive where the tree’s natural defenses are not active.

Estimate the spread and height of each tree. Spraying equipment for new trees may connect into the spray handle of a garden hose. Larger trees will require tanks which will hold 10 gallons or more.

Apply 1 to 2 gallons of spray to get a tree less than 10 feet in height which has a spread of 6 to 8 feet. Apply 5 to 10 gallons to get a tree between 10 and 20 feet in height which has a spread of 15 to 25 feet. . Cover all fruit and leaves with the spray. Some pesticides also require spraying the branches and trunk.

Begin spraying at the first indication of green buds and discontinue sprays three weeks before harvest. Timing of each spray is determined by the phase of fruit and bud development. The amount of sprays differs between personal vegetables, but can range from eight to 11 separate sprays for a complete regimen. Local conditions may allow fewer sprays in case certain diseases or insects are not present.

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Installing Bathroom Lights Above a Vanity Mirror

Bathroom lights over a vanity mirror will make dressing easier. A broad light bar with multiple bulbs can remove shadows and help you shave, wear makeup or use the mirror for other tasks. Removing an present single-light wall-mounted fixture and replacing it with a fresh light bar or alternative multilight fixture can be finished in about half an hour. The task doesn’t require any equipment aside from standard hand tools.

Turn off the breaker to the electrical circuit to your bathroom light fixture in the breaker panel. Unscrew the mounting screws with a screwdriver and remove the switch cover to your bathroom light. Hold a noncontact electrical tester against the wires connected to the switch and observe the light on the tester. If the light comes on, then the circuit is still hot, so turn off more breakers (or the main breaker to the house) and test again until the tester light stays off. Replace the switch cover.

Remove the globe and lights of the present light fixture on the wall over the mirror. Loosen the mounting screws and pull the fixture away from the junction box. Disconnect the wiring from the fixture and place the fixture aside.

Center the mounting bracket of the new light bar to position over the mirror, then covering the junction box. Put a torpedo level onto the very top of the mounting bracket and adjust the position of the bracket until it is flat. Mark hole positions throughout the mounting holes onto the wall with a pencil, then place the mounting bracket aside.

Check the place of the wall studs behind the wall with a fireplace. Drill a 1/4-inch pilot hole through the drywall of any mounting hole that doesn’t align with a hammer. Harness a drywall anchor to each predrilled hole with a hammer.

Slide the wiring from the junction box through the wire hole in the rear of the mounting bracket, and position the bracket over the mirror. Align the mounting holes with each formerly marked pencil mark or masonry anchor. Fasten the bracket to the wall by means of a screw to either the drywall anchor or wall stud with a power drill.

Connect the black wire from the wall switch to each one of the black wires from the light bar with a wire nut. Combine each of the white wires with a wire nut as well. Then wrap the bare wire from the light switch across the green grounding screw on the mounting bracket, and tighten the screw with a screwdriver.

Position the face plate of the light bar over the mounting bracket, aligning the mounting and fittings bolts with the right holes in the face plate. Tighten both lock nuts onto the ends of the mounting bolts to hold the face plate to position.

Insert a frosted light bulb into each receptacle, then turn on the circuit breaker in the breaker panel, and test the light with the light switch.

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How to Care for Hyacinth Plants Inside

If short, wet winter days leave you longing for the garden, look at forcing bulbs indoors. The bulbs add colour and beauty to your house and can satisfy your gardening itch. Hyacinths are one of the greatest options for indoor forcing. Their variety of colours and fragrant scent will help alleviate your winter blues. Forcing hyacinths is not difficult, but the plants do require special care to bloom and stay vibrant.

Place a thin layer of potting soil in the bottom of your planter. This layer ought to be deep enough so that when a hyacinth bulb is set with the root end, the cover of the wax is with the rim of the planter.

Set the bulbs on the bottom layer of dirt with the root end down and the pointed end sticking up. Plant one bulb in a 4-inch bud or three bulbs in a 6-inch bud. Bigger pots can carry as many bulbs as will match as long as the bulbs all sit straight.

Fill the planter with enough dirt to cover all but the top 1/2 inch of their bulbs. Do not add fertilizer to the ground or pack it down. Water that the planter and place it in the refrigerator or in a dark place that remains 35 to 45 degrees.

Keep the bulbs in the refrigerator for 13 to 15 weeks. Keep the soil moist, but not wet.

Remove the bulbs from the refrigerator and place them in a place that receives direct sunlight and remains at 60 levels. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Within two to three weeks the plants will develop flower buds. If you keep your own hyacinths in a room which is warmer than 60 degrees, then the plants will increase too quickly, making them leggy and weak.

Move the planter to an area with bright light when you see the flowers appear. Moving the plants out of direct sunlight will allow the plants last longer.

Transplant the bulbs to your garden when the flowers and leaves have perished. The bulbs will blossom outdoors next year. Forced hyacinth bulbs shouldn’t be forced indoors again.

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Owning a New Bath Vs. Remodeling an present Bath

Bathroom renovation, on a cost-per-square-foot basis, is among the most expensive home construction jobs, and when an old toilet begs for replacement, the cost difference between a remodel and also a new addition is an important consideration. In most cases, renovation will be more economical than an addition, but the benefit of one option over the other isn’t always clear cut.

Total Cost

Generally speaking, the cost of renovating a toilet will be cheaper than constructing a new one in case the homeowner is able to retain the vast majority of the room’s construction, mechanical systems and finishes. The price of constructing a new room is much more than the cost of renovation if the inclusion alters the property’s footprint, makes significant changes to plumbing or electrical systems, or needs extensive replacement of fixtures and finishes such as flooring and wall coverings.

Fixtures and Finishes

Replacement of finishes and fixtures is usually a goal of a bathroom remodel, so in this area, the cost difference between a renovation and an addition is minimum. In some cases, however, the reuse of existing fixtures is possible. If the present bathtub is in good shape, as an example, it might be a good idea to keep it; replacing a bathtub will add labor costs to your remodel in addition to the cost of the bathtub itself. Refinishing a cast iron bathtub is also frequently a cost-effective option to buying a new bathtub.

Systems

Material and labor costs associated with plumbing systems are a significant component in the overall cost of a bathroom remodel or addition, and also the more changes that will need to be made to the plumbing, the more expensive the project will be. In a relatively minor remodel, where new fixtures are installed at exactly the same places as existing fixtures, the plumbing may need no renovation. Moving fixtures or adding new ones will add significantly to the plumbing expenses, and including a new toilet will, of course, require the inclusion of entirely new plumbing systems.

Environmental Impact

The setup of new, efficient fixtures will turn an old toilet into a more environmentally friendly room; several newer bathrooms and shower heads in particular are intended to use much less water than older versions, and replacing ineffective models can reduce the long-term cost of a bathroom remodel too. But replacing fixtures and rebuilding the toilet will create waste and refuse that will probably be taken to a landfill; in terms of waste production, a minor renovation generally less of an environmental impact than a new bathroom addition.

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Types of Greenhouse Plastic Film

Glass is the standard material for greenhouses, but with improvements in technology, several kinds of expensive plastic greenhouse coverings are available for commercial greenhouse operators and hobbyists. Some plastic materials are apparent, allowing full sunlight to enter the greenhouse, while other plastics are translucent to diffuse the lighting within the greenhouse.

Polyethylene Film

Polyethylene, or PE, film is the lightest solution for greenhouse plastics. It is available in large rolls which you simply cut to match your greenhouse’s frame. Manufacturer’s of polyethylene movie make different grades, based on the amount of years you can expect it to last. One-year movie is the least expensive, thinnest variety, and four-year movie is the thickest. Ultraviolet light fast degrades polyethylene movie, so select a movie with UV protection embedded in the plastic. Some polyethylene films have also chemical properties fabricated into them to reduce the amount of condensation on the glass. Others have the ability to reflect radiated heat back into the greenhouse, much like glass does. This makes the plastic movies more energy-efficient.

Polyvinyl Chloride

Polyvinyl chloride, or PVC, film has several of the same qualities as polyethylene film. PVC film is more expensive than PE movie, but you can expect it to last up to five years. PVC film is available in 4- to 6-foot widths. Materials utilized in the manufacture of PVC film have a tendency to work as a magnet to dust particles from the air. You’ll need to occasionally rinse the movie if you live in an area which doesn’t have regular rain showers. PVC plastic is available with UV protection and also you’ll be able to find PVC that reduces condensation.

Double Walled Plastic

It is possible to set up either PE or PVC plastic film in a dual layer over a greenhouse frame to make the exterior stronger. Should you use a dual wall of plastic film, you will need to use a fan to blow air between the two layers to prevent them in adhering to one another. Light transmission to your greenhouse through a single layer of PE or PVC is 85 percent. The addition of a second layer of plastic film reduces that to 77 percent.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate plastic film comes at a rigid format which makes it simple install on the greenhouse’s frame. Some polycarbonate is corrugated, while other products have 2 smooth outer layers which encase an inner corrugated structure, much like that of a cardboard box. Polycarbonate material allows around 91 percent of the lighting to the greenhouse. Polycarbonate is impact-resistant and durable, lasting around 15 years. A disadvantage of polycarbonate is its surface scratches easily.

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Installing an Attic Fan

Attic fans draw super-heated atmosphere from attic spaces and vent it to the outside. While attic fans do not have an immediate affect on the heat inside living spaces, they do help alleviate some strain on air-conditioning systems. These fans function automatically through the heat of the day, supplying active air movement inside the attic once the home needs it most. Installation involves cutting holes in the home, putting electric connections, and doing some heavy lifting.

Fan Type

Choose which kind of fan you want for your home. Attic fans mount on the roof or in one of the gables. The principles of the way they function are the same. Both units draw cooler air from outside the attic — via soffit or other attic vents — and expel it into the outside through the fan opening. This creates air movement inside the attic space.

Cuts

Roof-mounted attic fans require the elimination of roof sheathing and shingles by cutting them using a power saw. Gable-mounted fans typically need minor expansion of the existing opening in case a gable vent is currently set up. If no vent exists, you must cut siding and wall sheathing to produce the essential opening.

Mounting the Fan

Roof-mounted fans come with a base made from plastic or sheet metal. The base sits on top of this roof and functions like both a mounting plate and roof flashing. Once the fan is set up, you can cover the base with roofing stuff as you would with any flashing. Gable-mounted fans need a good base, typically made from plywood, using a cutout for the buff. The plywood attaches to studs in the attic, and the fan attaches to the plywood. Some gable-mounted units arrive with a pre-fabricated metal base.

Electrical Hookups

An attic fan will typically need 4 to 5 amps of service. A conventional 15-amp dwelling circuit can handle up to 10 electric boxes that service a mild or electric outlet. Homes using a 20-amp circuit can handle up to 13 boxes. In case an existing circuit nearby cannot deal with the additional load of the attic fan, you might need to conduct a new 15-amp circuit into the space. The fan will also require electrical connections to power it along with the thermostat to control when the fan runs. If you’re not familiar with creating electrical connections or running circuits, then contact an electrician.

Safety Considerations

Your attic fan should have a firestat for part of its structure. This system closes down an operating attic fan when it detects extremely substantial temperatures. This is a security consideration in case of a fire. Should the attic fan continue to function during a fire, it could create a draft that would create the blaze to spread fast.

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Assist Installing a New Home Thermostat

A brand new thermostat can save you a considerable sum of money spent on heating and cooling bills each year. Most programmable thermostats enable you to set separate temperatures for different times of the day or night, automatically decreasing the amount you spend to heat or cool your home when no one is home. Some thermostats have a setting for every day of this week, or even a vacation setting so you are not over-spending on power costs while from town. Installing a new home thermostat can be completed in under an hour using a few simple hand tools.

Switch off the circuit breaker that offers power to the HVAC unit to that the older thermostat is connected.

Remove the cover plate from the front of the existing thermostat. Unscrew the two mounting screws holding the thermostat body onto the wall.

Unscrew one of those terminal screws onto that the wires are connected to the thermostat’s terminal block, and pull off the wire. Pull the cable through the back of the thermostat body and wrap a piece of masking tape wrap across the end of the cable creating a masking tape flag. Write the letter tagged straight over the terminal where you removed the cable onto the masking tape flag using a pencil. Repeat the procedure by removing each cable and labeling it using the letter from the terminal. Set the thermostat body apart after all wires are labeled and removed.

Slide the wires through the hole at the back of the new home thermostat physique, and position the body against the wall. Mark the hole locations throughout the body onto the wall using a pencil, then eliminate the thermostat body from the wall.

Drill a pilot hole through each of the hole places into the drywall using a power drill. Then tap a drywall anchor into each hole with a hammer.

Slide the wires back through the hole at the back of the thermostat body and position the body against the wall. Mount the body into the wall with the included mounting screws using a screwdriver.

Attach each cable with into this terminal corresponding to the marks on the masking tape flags. Wrap the cable around the proper terminal screw and tighten the screw with a screwdriver.

Install the batteries that came with the thermostat to the battery compartment, then mount the cover above the thermostat body.

Turn the power to the HVAC unit and then test the operation of the thermostat.

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How Toxic Are Geraniums to Dogs?

Many plants contain toxic substances which could harm dogs. Your dog might experience severe or mild symptoms depending on the plant’s chemicals and the area of the exposure. The widely used geranium (Pelargonium spp.) , planted in pots and gardens, are toxic to dogs. Puppies are especially vulnerable, because they will try to taste almost anythingelse.

Geraniums

You may be confused regarding which of the two sorts of geraniums is toxic. Every type of geranium comes in hundreds of varieties, but the geraniums of this genus Geranium, also referred to as cranesbill, are not toxic. Cranesbill contains annual, biennial and perennial plants, bearing pink, blue, purple or white flowers with five symmetrical petals. All these low-growing geraniums with stems that spread out make useful rock garden plants. The other common geranium (Pelargonium spp.) Has asymmetrical flowers in enormous variations depending on the cultivar. It’s toxic to cats and dogs. These frost-tender geraniums include the zonal and ivy-leaved geraniums. The stiff leaves of those geraniums have scalloped leaves and dark markers surround the borders. The leaves contain aromatic essential oils.

Geranium’s Toxins

Two chemicals at geraniums — geraniol and linalool — are toxic to dogs, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Geraniol and linalool give fragrance to botanical oils, and also cause skin irritation and skin allergies in susceptible men and women. These substances can also be used as insect repellents.

Toxicity Symptoms

The signs and symptoms of geranium toxicity are vomiting, lethargy, lack of appetite and skin rash. Vomiting, soon after eating geranium leaves, might be the first indication that your dog is sick. Other symptoms, such as lethargy or depression, are caused by the slowing of the human body’s metabolism. Your dog’s heart rate and blood pressure may become lower. Loss of appetite may cause anorexia and nutritional deficiencies if it continues. It your dog’s skin contacts geranium leaves, especially chewed or torn leaves, a skin rash may develop in the affected regions.

Treatment

Observe your dog if you believe it chewed on geranium leaves or rolled about among geranium plants. Some puppies may only have mild symptoms, but if you become aware of geranium toxicity symptoms, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Hotline (888-426-4435) for guidance. Wash affected skin areas with large quantities of warm water featuring some dishwashing liquid.

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Instructions for Sewing Curtain Panels Together

When the curtains you have your heart set on only aren’t wide enough for your window, there is a solution: Stitch two panels together to create an extra-wide curtain. This job takes a bit of attention and time, but it can be achieved with basic machine-sewing skills. It’s easiest to use unlined panels which are simply hemmed on all four sides, but it is possible to adjust the procedure to rod pockets and other header fashions.

Put two curtain panels together, right-sides facing, and upper and bottom hems matching. Pin along one long side. Using scissors or a rotary cutter and mat, cut off the hem on that side, cutting through both panels and the top and bottom hems. Remove the pins.

Open approximately 12 inches of the top and bottom hems of the panels with a seam ripper and beginning at the cut edge of their hems. Iron the opened hems to eliminate the folds and flatten the stuff.

Pin the two panels together, right-sides facing, together with all the cut edges and top and bottom edges matching. Stitch a plain flux along the cut edge, from the very top to bottom of this panel. Use a 1/2-inch tolerance for closely insulation, or even a 5/8-inch if the material is gauzy or loosely woven. Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears to prevent raveling. Press the seam open.

Fold the opened top and bottom hems along the flux to coincide with their initial positioning. Press and pin in place. Stitch the hems throughout the opening, extending 1 inch above the stitching on each side. Pull the thread ends into the incorrect side of the hem; tie in a knot and trim. The enlarged curtain panel is now ready to hang.

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How to Hang Wreaths on Big Front Doors

Big front doors make impressive entryways, but can be embarrassing to dress using a turtle. A good-looking turtle is frequently the expected adornment for seasonal curb appeal or holiday festivity, but only as long as it suits the door. Get the look you are after by hanging the best sized turtle at the appropriate height, employing a suitable hanging method.

Door to Wreath Ratio

An average door is 80 inches high and 36 inches wide, and also an average-sized wreath is all about 23 inches in diameter. Using these dimensions to your door-to-wreath ratio, select a wreath that suitably fills or covers about two-thirds of the door’s width. As an example, if your door is 42 inches wide, opt for a wreath that is approximately 28 inches in diameter.

Wide Ribbon

Strong ribbon can support a wreath on a big door and look good doing it. Loop a long enough period of ornamental ribbon through the wreath’s center or its hanger so it can go from the door top, centering the wreath at eye level, and back up. It should be 3 inches or so broad to appear substantial against a oversized door. Use a couple of flat-head tacks or a nail to attach the ribbon ends to the door top.

Sight Line

For a cleaner or more compact wreath, hang it with invisible monofilament or fishing line instead of decoration — 5- to 10-pound test line should suffice, based on the wreath’s weight. Tie or wrap the line around a flat-head nail on top of the door before hammering down the nail.

Up and Over

As the name implies, an over-the-door wreath hanger simply hooks in place over the door. The hanger might not bring the decoration low enough, but on a very tall door. If a long, sturdy hanger designed for big wreaths does not bring the wreath to eye level, utilize broad decoration or durable garland within an extension. Alternatively, make your personal custom-sized over-the-door wreath hanger using sheet metal, if you are metal-work savvy. File and sand the edges smooth, so they’re hand and door safe. Utilize steel crimps to form the fundamental square folds to get over the door, and also the hook-like folds to hold the wreath.

Window of Opportunity

Should you door has a window, then hang the wreath on it to enjoy from either side. Utilize a heavy-duty suction-cup hook to get this hanging method. A 20-pound-capacity hook ought to be powerful enough to hold a large wreath set up as the door swings opened and closed.

Scratch-Free Remedy

A large wreath or hardened hanger can leave scratches in your door. Reduce the chance of unsightly damage with bubble wrap or felt. Secure the protective material to the door, the back of the wreath or the hanger, as needed, using low-residue painter’s tape.

Big Thoughts

If you have double front doors, hang a wreath on each one. For an extra-tall door — 8-feet high or so — hang two or three wreaths, one below the other, joining them using fishing line or decoration. If your door is flanked by big sidelights and a transom above, hang beefy garland round the perimeter to complement the wreath and finish your festive appearance.

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Styles of Bath Carts

If you like the appearance of a kitchen island but do not have enough space to fit a bulky cabinet piece, a kitchen cart is a better choice. Smaller and often mobile, kitchen carts deliver much-needed extra storage and work surfaces in cramped spaces. Before choosing one for your own kitchen, think about your storage requirements, your decorating style and your available space. You’ll come across carts in a variety of sizes and materials, therefore having an idea about what is ideal for your kitchen makes your choice easier once you start shopping.

Metal Carts

Stainless steel carts lend an industrial sense to a kitchen and work well in modern spaces with slick lines. They are simple to clean and maintain, which makes them a popular choice for couples that are nerve-racking. Some stainless steel heaters come with a wooden butcher-block shirt, which can be more functional than a metallic surface for food preparation, in addition to offering a visually appealing extension of the countertop. If your cart has a steel surface, then only put a cutting board on top if you plan to chop food.

Wooden Carts

Kitchen carts crafted from wood are another popular choice. They make a nice addition to conventional and cottage-style kitchens. These carts could have open shelving suitable for baskets and display, or else they might feature shut drawers which provide an effect similar to cabinetry. You’ll see wooden kitchen heaters in both natural wood stains and painted finishes. Now you ought to be able to pick tops at various surface materials too, from butcher block to stainless steel to granite.

The Wheels

Many carts, regardless of the material, come with attached wheels (casters) as a standard feature. The casters let you move the unit to your place at any moment, making, say, another work surface in the conclusion of a countertop or a serving place in the center of the kitchen. When deciding on a rolling cart, make certain the casters have a locking mechanism to prevent unexpected movement, particularly in the event that you’re planning to use the cart often for food recovery.

Unique Attributes

When choosing a kitchen cart, you’ll realize that lots of boast special characteristics that help them work harder in your own space. A drop-leaf shirt, which is attached with hinges, is a frequent addition, particularly on wooden carts. You may raise the very best when additional work surface is necessary, or leave it lowered to save space when the cart is not in use. Other helpful exceptional features include hooks, towel bars and wine racks.

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