Could a Clear Coat Be Stripped and Reapplied?

The expression”clear coat” frequently refers to a clean, colorless polyurethane sealant used to protect floors and furniture. However, the term also includes any sealant, with or without color, that preserves the presence of the wood grain when providing a protective coating. Additional clear coats include varnish, oils and sealants. While any of these apparent coatings may be removed and reapplied, the benefit of removing the clear coat without removing the underlying blot will depend on the method and the status of the furniture or floor.

Oils or Waxes

Mineral spirits or turpentine will remove an oil coat from wood. Oils and waxes are most commonly used on unstained or unpainted wood to prevent drying, provide a moisture resistant barrier and make a glossy shine. However, they may be applied over a blot. If the wood has been stained, be careful when implementing the solvent as it may draw the stain out of the wood. Scrub the surface of the wood with a solvent and medium-grade steel wool. Reapply the oil or wax based on the manufacturer’s instructions.

Sanding Furniture to Eliminate a Clear Coat

In case the polyurethane clear coat is becoming yellowed or unsure, use sand paper or a tiny handheld sander to strip the coat. Don’t use a massive power sander, because it will remove the clear coat and a layer of wood. Also, a power sander, if used badly or by the inexperienced, will leave grooves in the wood. Sand with the grain of the wood and work with a light pressure. Vacuum the surface with the bristle attachment of a shop-vac to eliminate all of the dust and then use a tack cloth to grab anything that the vacuum cleaner overlooked. Reapply the coat based on the manufacturer’s instructions.

Screening Flooring to Strip a Clear Coat

If your flooring have become dull and scuffed, utilize a procedure called screening to eliminate the clear coat. Screening uses a floor buffer and progressively finer grades of abrasive disks, beginning at 60-grit and finish at 120-grit. This system produces a significant amount of dust and you must hand sand the corners. You can use a detail sander for the corners, but you should be careful to mix with the surrounding region. You can only screen floors which are unwaxed. For waxed flooring, you will need to completely strip the ground, blot included, with a drum sander which will also remove a fine layer of wood.

Using Chemical Solvents

Most hardware stores offer an assortment of chemical solvents developed to strip memory, paint and varnish. These solvents will not pull the stain out of wood, but they may lighten or discolor it. Chemical solvents soften the apparent coat, allowing it to be washed or shut off. When using chemical solvents, always work in a well ventilated place. Be skeptical of solvents that wash off with warm water, because the wood will soak up the water, preventing it from accepting a brand new clear coat.

Significant Notes

Always vacuum and wash the surface off with tack cloth before applying a fresh clear coat. Any dust particles will become trapped in the crystal clear coat, marring the end and possibly preventing the clear coat from sticking to the surface. If you previously employed an oil-based clear coat, only utilize an oil-based clear coat to the new end. The same goes for water-based. When the clear coat has been scraped to bare wood, you must strip all the furniture or flooring to bare wood prior to reapplying any stain or clear coat.

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The Way to Get Food Away Antique Wood Furniture

If food has spilled on your classic wood furniture, do not forget that the longer the food sits in place, the more difficult it’s to eliminate. If that wooden dining room table is an antique or a family room, using even a gentle abrasive or substance on it’s out of the question, as the cleaning procedure may cause more damage than good. Soft methods eliminate even the most stubborn foods from furniture, though it might take several tries or techniques to completely eliminate the food remains.

Place several ice cubes in a zippered plastic bag to treat greasy food residue on wooden furniture. Set the bag of ice directly over the moist fatty area until the place hardens. Scrape away as much of the debris as you can with the advantage of a plastic knife or a piece of card stock. If any grease remains, set a folded cotton fabric over the place and iron it on a low setting for several seconds until the cloth lifts away the dirt.

Eliminate milk or food that’s been left to dry on your classic piece by wiping it gently with a soft cloth, working from the outside edges toward the middle of the material. Dab a bit of oil soap on a slightly damp cloth or sponge to loosen the rest of the food residue. Wipe it clean with a fresh damp cloth or sponge, drying out the wood immediately afterwards with yet another fabric.

Eliminate Cracked or gummy food spills, like honey or molasses, by scratching up as much of it as you can with a plastic knife or pastry knife, operating from the outside in, when the substance is currently somewhat hard. If not, blot with a damp sponge, then again working toward the middle. Place a sandwich bag of ice cubes over the region and scrape on the material once it stinks. Eliminate any remaining residue by placing a little hot water on a soft cloth, then placing the fabric over the drip until the cloth liquefies. Dab it away, working toward the middle. Wipe clean with fresh damp cloth, then dry the area instantly.

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The Way to Refinish Brazilian Walnut Wood

When it comes to timber, Brazilian walnut ranks close to the top on the hardness scale. Called an exotic species, it’s tougher than oak or maple. It is used on specialty items like knobs, handles, medallions, tables, stair treads and handrails, plaques, veneer and flooring. The deep rich texture and colour of Brazilian walnut is comparable to teak, and for this reason, usually doesn’t need blot.

The Stripper

Chemical strippers are caustic. Don rubber gloves, breathing and eye protection and put down a dropcloth before you start. Apply an even coat of chemical stripper to the timber with a brush. Permit the stripper to gel the initial end and start scraping the finish off with a level stick. Do not use sharp tools since they can scrape. Scrape the finish off from the inside out. Use sharpened sticks to get inside tight spaces and corners. Fold a sheet of sandpaper into a sharp edge to receive gelled finish out of tight spots.

Sand Softly

Because this is a refinishing task the surface of the walnut has previously been sanded, so go straight to higher-grit sandpapers to your last prep before completing. Orbital sanders can leave small swirls in walnut, whilst belt sanders depart lines, therefore sand the surface of the walnut employing a hand block with 180-grit sandpaper. It is more work, but pays off in the long run. Sand the wood smooth with strokes parallel with the grain. Brazilian walnut is tough and will withstand the attempt so be patient. It should produce a fine powder during sanding. If the hand block begins to slide or polish the timber, change the paper. Brazilian walnut can be slightly fatty, therefore wipe the surface using a cloth dampened with acetone to clean off the tacky feel and remove dust or residue. Permit the wood to dry.

To Seal or Not to Seal

Brazilian walnut is prized because of its colour and texture and doesn’t need blot. But, oil-based stain is sometimes employed as a sealer or to tint the walnut marginally. Choose a colour that you prefer, wipe it liberally and wash it off. Oil stain takes up to 72 hours to cure, so follow label instructions and give it considerable time. If you skip the stain, apply a coat of sealer to the walnut with a soft brush. Sealer dries fast so work accordingly using strokes parallel with the grain to cover the timber until it dries.

Gloss or Satin

Satin polyurethane works well on Brazilian walnut. Other options include varnish or lacquer. Glossy clear coats detract from the beauty of walnut, but should you want, gloss is also an option. Apply a single coat of the clear finish to the wood with a soft brush with strokes parallel with the grain. Permit the finish to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Some goods take days, others just a few hours. When the initial coat is dry, apply a couple of additional coats using strokes parallel with the grain. Two coats are often adequate, but additional coats can be applied if desired to get a deeper appearance.

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Washing Windows With Vinegar and Ammonia

Washing windows can leave streaks, but vinegar and chlorine are successful streak-free cleansers. Ammonia is a powerful cleanser but because of its hefty fumes and ability to soften skin, it also requires safety precautions. Vinegar is nontoxic and won’t burn skin. Even though some people today find the odor of vinegar unpleasant, it dissipates as it dissolves.

Vinegar

Vinegar’s acidity cuts through grease. This all-natural cleaner is inexpensive and available at any supermarket. After washing the windows with soap and water to remove excessive dirt, then make a spray cleaner by inserting two tablespoons distilled white vinegar to 1 quart water in a spray bottle. Spray it on the windows, then allow it to sit for a minute or two, then wipe the window using a squeegee or microfiber fabric to prevent stripes.

Ammonia

Ammonia, a base, cuts through grease from dissolving fatty acids. Because of its strong fumes, you must adequately ventilate the room, meaning opening the windows as soon as you have washed them or turning to a fan. You’ll also need rubber gloves to protect your skin and a face mask to filter fumes. Mix ammonia at precisely the same ratio as vinegar — two tablespoon per gallon of water. If desired, blend 1 tablespoon ammonia and one tablespoon vinegar with the water rather.

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How to Wash Shoe Polish Stains From Vinyl Floors

Vinyl functions as a durable floor covering which is resistant to spills and stains, provided that the offending material is washed straight away. This type of flooring is more prone to scuffs and marks from rubber shoe soles and shoe shine, however. An eraser comes to the rescue to remove shoe shine, rendering the floor mark-free once more.

Erase People Scuffs

An eraser made to wipe away pencil marks also erases shoe shine scuffs on vinyl flooring. First, blot the area with a paper towel in the event the scuff is fresh, since a few of the polish may transfer over to the paper. Rub gently using the paper towel, rubbing at the direction of this scuff, rather than over it, to avoid spreading it. Once you’ve removed as much as you can using the paper towel, rub the region with a large eraser until the scuff evaporates. If a little shoe polish residue remains, pour a small amount of baby oil above the mark, then let it sit for 20 minutes or so, then rub away with a soft cloth.

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How to Repair a Leak Within an Air Mattress Using a Hot Glue Gun

The best way to repair a hole in a leaky vinyl air mattress is using a repair kit created for the item, but warm glue can stop the air leakage and temporarily repair the harm in a crisis. After locating the hole in the bed, it is ideal to use a low-temp glue gun to stop damage to the plastic, which is a form of plastic.

Inflate the bed as much as you can and listen for escaping air around the seams and all over the surface to find the hole. If you can’t hear any escaping air, dip a kitchen sponge into a soapy water solution and then rub the sponge gently above the mattress surface, then starting with the seams, then to observe where bubbles form. Wipe the bed dry using a soft cloth and mark the hole using a bit of tape or a marker.

Insert a glue stick into a low-temp glue gun. Plug the glue gun in and allow it to fully heat up. Remove any tape from the hole at the air mattress in the event that you used it to mark the spot.

Squeeze the face of this glue gun and gently put a small dab of hot glue over the hole to temporarily patch it up.

Allow the hot glue to fully dry before using the air mattress again.

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High Desert Plants That Grow on a chain-link Fence

In general, the phrase “high desert” identifies desert regions that are situated inland at high elevations. Even though these regions are dry, they do receive more precipitation than lesser lying desert regions and are not quite as alluring. In California, the high desert goes to the geographic region northeast of the San Gabriel Mountains. Gardeners living in California’s high desert or in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 and 9 can develop several climbing high desert plants to cover unsightly chain link fences. Many of these climbing plants are vines, but a few are shrubs with vine-like tendencies.

Evergreens and Semievergreens

Primrose jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi), yellow orchid vine (Mascagnia macroptera) along with pink trumpet vine (Podranea ricasoliana) are excellent options for evergreen vines to cover a fence. Primrose jasmine offers yellow flowers in late winter and spring, while the yellow orchid vine blossoms in late spring and early summer. Planting these two together generates an evergreen fence with yellow flowers continuously from late winter to early summer. The pink trumpet vine flowers in late summer and fall along with its blossoms have a light, pleasing scent. The yellow orchid and pink trumpet vines are semievergreen and might die back temporarily during cold winters. All these plants do best in full sun.

Year-Round Flowers

For year-round blossoms, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis) is just a vine-like shrub that likes full sun or part shade in exceedingly hot areas, requires very little water once established and comes in a wide array of bright colors. However, bougainvillea includes thorns and might not be suitable for fences near sidewalks or heavily traveled areas. A thorn-free option for flower lovers with a fence in full sun is the potato vine (Solanum jasminoides), which provides white flowers and purplish green foliage annually when grown in a frost free environment. Cape honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis) also flowers during the year. As an additional bonus, the vibrant red-orange blossoms of the cape honeysuckle will attract hummingbirds to your garden.

Low Litter

If your fence is close to a pool, you will want plants that won’t fall a whole lot of leaves or spent flowers which shake pool filters and stick to wet bare feet. Low litter plants are also a wise option for fences next to walkways, so guests don’t drag messy plant components into your home. Low litter options include grape ivy (Cissus trifoliata) and lilac vine (Hardenbergia violacea). Grape ivy is semievergreen and although not showy, offers attractive green foliage and will grow in full sunlight in addition to deep shade. Lilac vine is a evergreen shrub-like plant that can climb fences and produce purple flower clusters in the winter and spring. The evergreen primrose jasmine and year old flowering potato vine also create hardly any litter.

Two Noteworthy Plants

Even though they defy categorization, there are two other exceptional options for gardeners wanting to conceal a fence. One is the hacienda creeper (Parthenocissus tricuspidata). Also called Boston ivy, the hacienda creeper is a semievergreen vine with glossy leaves and attractive leaf color options. In areas where the plant will not lose its leaves in the fall, the leaves turn shades of crimson, orange and burgundy in the fall. This is only one of the few climbers that can be grown in the high desert which produces such stunning fall color reliably. Another option is Lady Banks’ rose (Rosa banksiae). Although this plant isn’t particular to the high desert climate, it will not grow well there. This rose is an appealing, vigorous evergreen with white or pale yellow flowers and requires hardly any attention or water, making it perfect for active gardeners on the move.

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The Best Ways to Trim a Mulberry Tree

Mulberry trees (Morus spp.) Are notoriously famous for dropping staining fruits onto walkways and neighboring vehicles using their long, outstretched branches. Trimming your mulberry tree looks like a sensible solution, but these deciduous trees can’t tolerate extensive pruning without harming their general wellness. The most effective ways to trim a mulberry tree include strategic branch removal and cutting the limbs during the period.

Timing

The winter dormancy period lets you trim the mulberry tree when it isn’t actively growing. Since the tree is deciduous, you readily find the branches within the tree’s canopy to get an accurate survey of essential pruning. Should you wait to trim the tree during the spring and summer, then you can’t observe the limbs that might need cutting since the leaf blocks the view. In fact, the summertime heat leads to pruning damage, particularly together with the bark. Damaged and sunburned bark from trimming allows pests and pathogens to further aggravate the vulnerable cuts.

Limited Trimming

Your trimming method needs to be limited to dead, diseased and crossed branches. Mulberry trees have a tendency to bleed at the cutting edge sites, which makes them vulnerable to pressure and growth stunting; the winter dormancy period typically has diminished bleeding throughout pruning sessions. Try to avoid cutting the main branches unless they are especially damaged from winds or disease. Twisted lateral branches that stretch too much from the central leader have to be trimmed so that the stronger, main limbs have more energy to get leaf, flowering and fruiting procedures.

Cut Size

Since the mulberry tree still bleeds even during the period, your trimming cuts will need to be smaller than 2 inches. Cuts larger than 2 inches over the branches create lacerations that cannot heal because the bleeding keeps the wound open and fresh. Pathogens and insects input the mulberry tree freely and cause widespread harm and growth stunting. Should you restrict your trimming to damaged limbs close to the drip line, then your cuts are naturally smaller than 2 inches and the tree has a good chance at recovery quickly.

Prevent Pollarding

Reducing nearly all new growth every one or two years is called pollarding. Although this pruning process retains the mulberry at a manageable size, it effectively reduces the tree’s lifespan. New growth stipulates the developing area for fruits every year. Should you remove the new branches consistently, the tree has limited fruiting or none at all. Avoiding any pollarding process and limiting your pruning to only several branches throughout the dormant period preserves your mulberry tree’s lifespan and wellness.

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Tall Bushes for Privacy Above Fence

Tall bushes make excellent privacy displays above a fence. Bushes not just block the line of sight to your home or lawn, they are also able to dampen noise from traffic or neighbors. The best bushes for solitude are evergreens since they will have foliage year-round. Deciduous bushes don’t provide as much solitude as evergreens during winter, but they are more likely to have vibrant foliage or spring flowers than evergreens.

Boxwood

Boxwoods (Buxus sempervirens) are extremely popular shrubs because of their dense, yards. They are also quite simple to prune into pretty much any shape, making them perfect for hedging. Boxwoods grow nicely in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9 plus they prefer full sun. Common boxwoods can grow up to 20 feet tall, while Korean boxwoods and other varieties reach heights of anywhere between 2 and 9 feet.

English Laurel

English laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a fast-growing evergreen tree or shrub. It grows well in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9 and takes decent soil drainage. Many gardeners like English laurel because of its fragrant white flowers in early summer and spring. It has narrow and long leaves, which can be occasionally glossy. This plant can grow up to 30 feet tall, though smaller varieties like the ‘zabeliana’ don’t grow taller than 6 feet.

Grandiflora Rose

Grandiflora roses (Rosa grandiflora) are large shrub roses with vibrant flower clusters. They grow best in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. Based on the variety, they could reach heights of around ten feet, making them exceptional privacy screens. 1 drawback of roses as solitude bushes is they lose their leaves and also supply less solitude during winter.

American Holly

American holly (Ilex opaca) rises up to 50 feet tall as a tree, but gardeners may also prune it to a more compact privacy hedge. It grows best in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9, but it can tolerate slightly warmer zones in temperate Mediterranean climates. Holly is a classic vacation plant with glossy leaves and red berries. It prefers full or partial sun and slightly acidic soils with adequate drainage. Holly bushes remain green year round and also have dense foliage, which makes a superb privacy screen.

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