The Way to Fix a Cracked Standup Shower Made From Plastic

Cracks at standup showers may be brought on by a person placing his entire weight on the bed of the shower as he stands up or by dropped items. If the crack isn’t treated immediately, it may split open, leading to potential leaks. Fixing the crack isn’t a time-consuming process, but you have to take drying time into consideration because the shower cannot be utilized until all program materials have fully dried.

Run the tip of a utility knife along all sides of the crack, to form a V shape across the crack’s length. Ensure that the thickness of the crack goes through the vinyl coating, stopping in the fiberglass foundation (the thickness of the crack will generally be between 1/16 and 3/16 inch).

Run a rag over the crack to remove dust. Use the sandpaper or handheld rotary tool with sanding fittings to smooth out the edges where the crack meets the plastic surface of the shower. Wipe off the sanding particles caused the rag. Apply nail polish remover across the crack using a brush, and then wipe it away with all the rag.

Put a small amount of fix paste into a mixing cup (enough to fully cover the crack). Add 1/4 oz. Of catalyst for each 1/4 oz. Of paste. Mix together using the little stirring stick. Follow manufacturer’s instructions if they change from them.

Use the mixture over the surface of the crack using the larger stirring rod. Ensure that the mixture slightly overfills the crack. Allow 60 minutes for the substance to fully dry (for faster drying time, run the hot-air flow of a hair dryer over the mixture).

Sand down and up along the dried mixture until it fits the smooth surround of this shower’s plastic coating. Run your fingertips over the crack to ensure it is smooth.

Apply a little quantity of the rubbing compound to a clean rag, and then rub up and down the crack using the rag till it fully blends in with the surrounding area.

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How Long Should I Cut Grass on New Sod?

Sod is an investment as well as a project. Not only must you carefully rake, amend and moisten the subsurface, but additionally there are endless rolls of sod to carry and fit together in an awesome layout with edges and corners neatly fit together. Cutting too soon can split expensive sod and awaiting too late may make a mess, even wasting time as well as money.

Green Grow the Grasses

Sod can represent a major investment, so use locally grown sod that’s been cut over the last 24 hours. Local sod has grown on similar ground and will adapt to a dirt with less trouble than sod grown elsewhere. If sod appears dry or yellow, roots may be too dry to recover. A moist subsurface nurtures roots and promotes growth. Sod laid under good conditions and kept moist with 1/2 inch of water every day should attach firmly to the subsoil and be prepared to mow in about 14 days. Roots not maintained consistently moist take more time to initiate and maintain vigorous growth.

Too Soon or Too Late

Mowing sod too soon can tear it up and waiting too long can leave you with grass too much time to cut in 1 pass. If your sod gives in to a tug along a border at the end of 14 days, it requires more to bond with its new home. If you need to wait, it’s possible your new grass may grow too long. However long it rises, remove no more than one-third the period of the grass blades each time you mow.

Keep It Light

You’re going to be cautioned to maintain the dog and kids off fresh sod, but when it comes to mowing, a light touch is imperative. Mowing is more or less abusive to grass. Never use a lawn mower on new sod. It’s weight and strength of the big rotary blade will compress and rip up sod rolls. Use a push rotary or reel mower to minimize abuse to turf. Set the mower high to begin with and move down it to the recommended height for the grass range of your sod over a span of weeks. Longer grass blades shade origins, allowing them to grow stronger and longer.

Grass Length

Cool-season grass mixes look and develop best when maintained from 2 to 2-1/2 inches long. Using the one third rule, even if sod grass rises to 3 inches, then you may safely cut it around 2 inches. On the other hand, if it requires more time or rises faster than anticipated, cut it to 3 to 3-1/2 inches and mow it down to 2 to 2-1/2 inches the next day.

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How Much Light for Tiger Lilies?

To receive your tiger lily off to the ideal beginning, it’s important to ascertain what flower you’ve actually purchased. Not surprisingly, more than one spotted blossom with exotic petals is referred to as tiger lily. Luckily, all belong to the same botanical family, Lilium, that minimizes confusion considerably. However, where you set the blossom is a must, since some tiger lilies need all the light they can get, while others bear or even prefer part shade.

Lilium Lancifolium

Lilium lancifolium, which also has the botanical synonym Lilium tigrinum, prefer full sunlight or partial shade. These tiger lilies will probably enjoy daytime colour in areas with dry, hot summers. The Oriental native Lilium lancifolium is the sole “tiger lily” which isn’t native to the U.S. Lilium lancifolium features spotted flower heads so lush that they bend down, frequently needing staking to keep stems from splitting. Color types include yellow and pink. The plants grow over 4 feet tall in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 9.

Lilium Colombianum

Lilium colombianum prefers part shade. Although it’s a well-known western wildflower, some people today cultivate Lilium colombianum in their own gardens. Commonly known as wild tiger lily or Columbian lily, the plant grows between 3 to 6 feet in height, bearing cup-shaped, pale orange flowers with dark spots. It thrives in summer’s drier grounds, but is also located along streams and riverbanks.

Lilium Parvum

A wetlands plant, Lilium Parvum, also referred to as Alpine lily or Sierra tiger lily prefers partial shade and moist soil. As a wildflower, it’s native to California and is almost exclusively found in the north and central inland regions of the state. The vividly-hued flowers are bell-shaped, with yellow centers splashed with maroon spots, in addition to dark orange petals. Depending on growing conditions, it attains 2 to 6 feet grown as a cultivated plant in USDA zones 5 to 9.

Lilium Michauxii

Lilium michauxii, most frequently known as the Carolina lily, is a fantastic choice for the full-sun garden. According to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, however, the blossom is so similar to its cousins that it’s sometimes grouped with the tiger lilies also from the Lilium family. It is most similar in look to the yellowish Lilium lancifolium. A native of the southeastern section of the U.S., Lilium michauxii thrives in USDA zones 5 to 8. It is a nodding flower with petals that curve upwards. The flowers are light yellow with a red blush, maroon-spotted at the middle. They grow between 1 to 4 feet.

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Different types of Cornflower

Cornflowers normally call up dreams of sky blue flowers waving at a summer breeze. Although both yearly cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) and perennial cornflower (Centaurea montana) typically athletic bright blue blooms, they also appear in a range of pink, lavender, violet, white or purple. Cornflowers range in height in tall 3-foot varieties to dwarf cultivars only 6 inches high. Whether you add them to a perennial garden, develop them for cut flowers or plant them at flowerbeds, cornflowers create a drought-resistant and deer-resistant inclusion your garden.

Yearly Cornflower

Yearly cornflowers (Centuarea cyanus), also referred to as bachelor’s buttons or blue bottle, are spring during summer bloomers. In addition to the conventional blue cornflower colour, you can find them in purple, purple, purple and white hues. The blossoms are 1 1/2 ins with ragged petals. Conventional yearly varieties grow 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall and spread 6 to 12 inches wide. They are able to topple over from the end as they reach their full height, requiring you to stake them. Plant yearly cornflowers in cutting gardens and cottage gardens or add them to meadow gardens for a wildflower look. Although considered an annual, these cornflowers tend to self-seed from year to year.

Dwarf Annual Cornflower

Smaller varieties of yearly cornflowers are acceptable for putting in flowerbeds and containers. “Dwarf Blue Midget” (Centaurea cyanus “Dwarf Blue Midget”) sports flowers of true blue color. It grows only 6 to 12 inches tall, blooming from June through September. “Florence Mix” (Centaurea cyanus “Florence”), another compact cornflower, tops out at 6 to 12 inches tall. In addition to blue flowers, “Florence Mix” contains shades of close white, pure pink and white. It blooms from June through August.

Perennial Cornflower

Perennial cornflower (Centaurea montana) is a showy, 2-foot broad and tall plant which blooms from May to June. It exhibits just one 2-inch fringed purple blue flowers with purple to red centers. Hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, perennial cornflower is also referred to as mountain bluet. Spreading by underground stolons, perennial cornflower rapidly forms colonies. Its bright blue flowers make it a great addition to the cutting or cottage garden.

Perennial Cornflowers With Unusual Colours

Added cultivars of perennial cornflower add interest to your garden with colored leaves or unusual flower colours. “Gold Bullion” (Centaurea montana “Gold Bullion”) exhibits golden-hued leaves and lavender flowers with maroon centers. It grows 1 to 2 feet tall and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. Exotic looking “Black Sprite” (Centaurea montana “Back Sprite”) grows 30 to 35 inches tall. It’s dark purple to black star-shaped flowers and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9. To get a midsized perennial cornflower with heavy purple flowers, plant “Amethyst Dream” (Centaurea montana “Amethyst Dream”), that grows 18 to 20 inches tall. An early to midsummer bloomer, it is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9.

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Different Colours of the Stargazer Lily

“Stargazer” lilies (Lilium orientalis “Stargazer”) are big, showy Oriental lilies initially developed in Arcata, California, in the mid-1970s. Named for their upward-facing flowers, these lilies initially came only in a single pinkish-red and white color scheme. While this is still the most common kind of the “Stargazer” lily, gardeners are now able to choose different colors to brighten their planting structures. The flowers prosper in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 4 to 9.


No matter what colour edition you plant, your “Stargazer” lilies can be recognized with their tall, upright shape and very big flowers. On average, this range produces six to nine heaven, every one between 8 and 6 inches across. Unlike many Asiatic lilies, which can seem similar, “Stargazer” flowers have a strong, sweet fragrance that attracts pollinators and can perfume an whole room.

Pink and White

The first “Stargazer” lily has deep red to pink petals with narrow white margins. The interior of these petals is speckled and striped with darker pink to crimson tones, while the middle of this blossom is light yellow with bright orange anthers and pollen. It’s ideal to shake this pollen off of cut blooms prior to pulling them inside, since this tends to maintain the flowers to get a longer period.


Yellow “Stargazer” lilies are a relatively new development, but “Golden Stargazer” provides a change of color for your garden. These flowers have exactly the identical upward-facing development habit of their white and pink family members, but their petals are an even yellowish-gold all around. The inner part of the flower will be speckled with bright orange to crimson spots, while the anthers are reddish with red pollen. This kind of “Stargazer” lily produces blooms that average only 5 to 6 inches across.


White “Stargazer” variants such as “Snow Princess” remain fairly uncommon at publication time however provide an impressive alternative to the standard colors. These 5- to 7-inch flowers are very open and upright, instead of the frillier appearance of several other white lily cultivars. They have clear, bright white to cream petals and dark red to orange anthers with colored pollen. The center of this flower is often light green. Unlike a few other white cones, these blooms lack speckles, lines or other imperfections.


While all of the colors of the “Stargazer” cultivar can be extremely lovely and striking, they also pose a danger to pets. This popular kind of lily is very poisonous to cats and can lead to kidney failure and death. Keep cats away from outside lily plantings and prevent bringing cut blossoms inside to secure your pets.

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Milkweed Perennials

Milkweed perennials (Asclepias spp.) Bear many little star-shaped flowers and produce a milky sap; they’re named for this sap. The plants develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 10 and bloom in summer, posture their flowers in wide, flattened clusters at the branch tips. All varieties produce silky seeds in inflated seed pods. Milkweed thrives in a sunny location with sandy soil and offers benefits to insects.

Milkweed Identification

Common milkweed can grow up to 6 feet tall with big 4- to 10-inch-long leaves, occasionally with red veins. Some varieties produce clusters of drooping pinkish-purple flowers, though other varieties’ flowers vary in color from red and yellow-orange to orange and bicolored blooms. All varieties produce green seed pods that turn brown prior to releasing and opening fluffy seeds. All pieces of milkweed plants are toxic if eaten.


Milkweed seeds can easily be spread by the end, which catches the fluffy seeds and also carries them long distances. You can collect the seeds following the pods dry and before they split and release seeds. Sow these seeds in spring or fall, in light, sandy soil if at all possible, and cover lightly with soil. You can also lift and separate existing plants in spring. Lifted plants may not bloom the first year, but expect plants started from seed to bloom the first year.


Milkweed requires little care, as they can grow in any good garden soil, even though they prefer sandy soil. The plants do not need fertilization; they spread freely by underground rhizomes and will quickly take over an whole area. Because of their drought tolerance, some varieties — such as butterfly weed (A. tuberosa), that grows in all USDA zones as an annual — make great plants to utilize xeriscaping.


While the milky sap of these plants is toxic to humans, it is beneficial to your insects. The plants’ flowers attract butterflies, moths, bees and other insects which feed to the plant nectar; the nectar isn’t poisonous, so it does not damage these insects. The caterpillar of the Monarch butterfly eats the leaves of the milkweed plant, which include exactly the exact same poisonous substance since the sap, cardiac glycosides. This poison does not harm the caterpillar; instead it enters the caterpillar’s body, which makes it poisonous to its predators. Even adult Monarch butterflies have this poison in their bodies.

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How to Fix the Folding Door to a Corner Cupboard

Folding corner doors revolutionized cupboards by opening the blind corner which happens when two closets join together. It is not complex, only a piano hinge on the doors to permit one door to lie flat, while the other door opens them as a single. This layout works like a charm until the piano hinge which operates the doors begins to fail. This happens when they get greasy, are exposed to high humidity or even somebody abuses them. One of those doors fails to lie flat and contacts other cupboards before the door is completely open. Replace the hinge to repair it.

Open both doors. Unscrew the hinges that hold the doorways to the cabinets utilizing a drill/driver. They’ll be on a single side attached to the cabinet face frame.

Set the door on a flat surface. Open up them so that the screws holding the piano hinge to the door are facing upward — or backward if the hinge is too damaged to lie flat.

Unscrew each of the screws on the doors and remove the piano. Do not move the doors. Utilize a drill/driver with a No.1 apex suggestion to remove the screws.

Compare and buy an identical piano. Make sure to evaluate the hole layout. Match the holes up so the existing holes in the cupboard doors will fit the hinge.

Set the new hinge where the old one came off. Line up all the holes. Insert 5/8-inch brass screws in the holes and then push them down tight employing the drill/driver along with apex tip.

Hang both doorways back onto the cupboards utilizing exactly the very same hinges and screws as before.

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Landscaping Ideas With Gazebos

A freestanding, covered gazebo can create a focus in the backyard landscape. Traditional gazebos have been eight-sided, but can be constructed in virtually any shape or size. In warm weather, they provide scenic spots to hold celebrations, quiet dinners and even neighboring weddings. Children can play outdoors and still escape the rain or the heat from the sun’s beams. These structures can be simple or ornate and big or small, depending upon your personal preferences and taste, your budget and the space available.


The location of the gazebo will be dependent on its intended usage. When you’ve got small children in the household who’ll be playing inside it on a regular basis, it may be desirable to keep it close to your property. If the objective of the gazebo is to give peace, quiet and solitude, the far end of the lawn may be a better option. You may even opt to create this getaway at the end of your dock or in the middle of a small pond. Plan your landscaping needs around the amount of sunlight and moisture available in the area where you place the gazebo.


Gazebos fashions vary. Some have straight, simple lines while some come outfitted with curlicues and other ornate architectural accents. Those on a restricted income may opt for mobile, canvas-covered choices that may just charge a few hundred dollars. Others, with more funds, may build a gorgeous lawn addition that can cost thousands of dollars. The kind of landscaping must reflect the gazebo style you choose. As an example, an beautiful statue surrounded by hybrid roses would appear strange out a mobile structure but could seem appropriate with a costly and conventional columned white gazebo.

Getting There

If your gazebo is on a patch of grass halfway round your yard or at the other end of your backyard, you will need to provide a stable method of getting to there. Paver, flagstone or brick walkways are all choices to create a path and prevent grass from being worn down on the way to the structure. If the gazebo is rather close to the main home, an arbor covered with vines and flowering plants makes an attractive and utilitarian addition to your landscaping plan. If the structure is a long distance from the home, quaint benches made from concrete or wood can provide rest stops along the way, especially for the older or very tiny children.


Your gazebo getaway may be only furnished with just a ceiling fan or hanging lights for function and decoration. You may add privacy with the installation of curtains, screens or trellises. Trumpet vines (Campsis radicans) can be trained to climb around the sides and top for shelter from the sun and extra shade. Low-lying hedges or flower beds help set off the gazebo and add to the relaxing environment. Pots of brilliant geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum) on both sides of the door help provide a warm welcome to guests. The extras you choose is going to be a reflection of your style along with a reflection of the way you wish to use the space.

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Where to Plant a Lime Tree

Limes lend a delicious tang and attractive green colour to drinks, desserts and a variety of meals. By growing your own lime tree, then you’ll have access to more affordable and tastier fruit than you can buy at the store. Lime trees, such as other types of citrus, are sensitive to frosty temperatures and develop best in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 through 11. Planting your lime tree in the best possible place ensures it will prosper and make an abundance of fruit for several decades.


All varieties of lime trees must be planted in full sun for the best results. Choose a planting site that receives as much full sun as you can, ideally from dawn to late afternoon. Avoid putting algae trees near or under other trees, by which they will be shaded from sun. In case your lime tree does not get enough sunlight, then it will develop more slowly than normal and create fewer fruits.


Lime trees prefer sandy loam soil but can tolerate several other soil types as long as they have decent drainage. If your soil includes mostly heavy clay or sand, you’ll have to amend it before planting. Mixing in compost or other organic matter to a depth of 1 or 2 inches helps supply the drainage and nutrients that the lime tree requires. Ideally, don’t plant lime trees next to plants that require frequent irrigation.


If your area gets very windy or adventures occasional frosts, you ought to protect your lime tree in inclement weather. Too much wind can certainly damage a young lime tree. At the winter, leaf damage may occur when temperatures drop to 30 degrees Fahrenheit, and tree death will probably occur at 29 F or even below. Planting your lime tree near a building that does not block the sun is best, as the building will shield the tree in cold northern winds.

Other Factors

Avoid planting your lime tree near power lines. If it gets moist, the divisions may fall off and land on the power line, causing an outage or other damage. Do not plant the tree near a drain field or septic tank. Cleaning supplies, chemicals and soaps can enter the tree during its roots, damaging or killing it. The roots can also clog the drain of the septic tank.

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