When Do Spears Appear on Asparagus Plants?

Asparagus plants are generally grown in the roots of 1-year-old plants, called crowns. After crowns are planted in the ground in the conclusion of the winter or the start of the spring, then it takes several weeks to get the first spears to look. These spears are not harvested in the first year. Left alone, they develop into ferns that gather energy for the following year. Asparagus is a perennial plant which can live 15 or even 20 years together with proper care. Spears appear yearly for the life of this plant.

When Spears Appear

Spears appear early in the spring when daytime temperatures frequently hit 60 F or higher. These spears might be harvested when they are 6 to 8 inches long, typically starting in mid March and continuing through mid June. On a mature plant, then this crop continues for up to ten weeks. Spears produced following this 10-week period has to be left to develop to ferns.

Young Plants Grown In Crowns

Crowns are planted in the ground in the late winter or early spring. For a single year, crowns are allowed to develop without any crop taking place. In the spring following the year they are planted in the ground, the new asparagus bushes will produce their first small harvest. To cultivate strong, healthy crops, you have to limit this first harvest to a two-week period, beginning as soon as the first spears are tall enough to be cut. Any spears produced following this two-week period should be left to develop to ferns. Harvesting too much too soon will weaken the crops for future growing seasons.

When Grown From Seeds

Like crowns, seeds are planted in the late winter or early spring. For two decades, seeds are allowed to develop without any harvest taking place. This additional wait time is why a lot of gardeners choose to cultivate their asparagus from healthful shingles, bought in nurseries and garden centres. In the spring of this next year, asparagus grown from seeds produce their very first small harvest. Like asparagus grown from crowns, this first crop period is shortened to 2 weeks.

Harvest Tips

To crop spears you have to snap them off in the base of this plant. With a knife or scissors to cut spears may come in damaged spears just emerging from the ground. Asparagus does not continue long, and has to be cooked or refrigerated immediately upon being harvested.

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Material for Fence That resembles Real Plants

Fencing doesn’t have to be constructed of conventional materials such as wood, rocks or bricks. There are creative alternatives available, such as artificial plants or leaves made of plastic or silk. Fences may look just like the plants in the surrounding landscape, or else they can imitate greenery where it is not normally possible to develop plants because of the lack or available water. It’s possible to create an environment which looks green and refreshing and that needs little upkeep using artificial greenery. Before installing any artificial fence or display, check local ordinances because they may prohibit or restrict the usage of artificial greenery in the landscape.

Freestanding Artificial Plants

Freestanding artificial plants can easily be used as fencing if they are tall enough and thick enough. If you merely need a display for privacy or to disguise a less desirable landscape facet, plants such as bamboo or small palms might be a great selection. These plants don’t provide complete cover and still allow transmission. However, occasionally complete coverage is needed for solitude. In this instance, thick columnar evergreen-like artificial plants much like arborvitae or cypress could be good options. For lower hedge-like fences, artificial boxwood or photinia would be the best selections.


In case you have an current fence, you could have the ability to weave artificial vines in and out of their holes and spaces. This works best using cyclone fences or similar types. Just about any vining plant will work for this objective. The most frequent plant is probably English ivy, but other plants can also be acceptable for this purpose. Pothos, philodendron and grape vines are appealing choices. Flowering vines add a touch of color if used sensibly; take care not to overwhelm with too much color. Wisteria, fuchsia or bougainvillea are nice selections for this objective.

Carpets, Nets

Some artificial greenery comes in carpets or nets. The greenery is woven into a net or attached to your net. It is possible to drape these carpets of greenery over fences or other objects, or use them as groundcover. These carpets require some kind of support and will not stand by themselves. A well-known example is artificial turfthat has many uses outside its regular use as a bud substitute.

Panels, Mats

Panels and couches are sections of artificial greenery which you can assemble into planks, forms or topiaries. Often, greenery attaches to your stiff background that could range from rigid plastic to galvanized steel cable. It is possible to assemble them to planks, hedges or decorative displays. Some mats have built-in mechanics for attaching one panel to the other, but some need separate hardware. They frequently require a frame of some kind to provide form and stability.

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How to Plant in a Full-Sun Garden Together With Crab Apple Trees

Whether your lawn features an ornamental or a culinary assortment of crab apple, then the tree leads frothy springtime flowers in addition to fruit that is at least “for the birds” Because “crabs” prefer full sunlight but themselves cast some shade, companion planting can be challenging. Search for neighboring plants which thrive in full sunlight and even work to boost the plant health of the crab apple. Moreover, seek lower-growing plants that will endure dappled shade should they grow under the branches of crab apples and their bigger neighbors. Both dwarf and conventional crab apple trees grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.


Spring-blooming bulbs are ideal near deciduous small trees such as crabs for many reasons. First, the flowering bulbs finish their blooming periods before the trees leaf out, meaning that you can plant them near and even under the crab apple trees without fear of robbing the bulbs of sunlight. Secondly they suppress shallow-rooted grass and weeds which compete with the nutrients crabs need — by the time the trees start to blossom and fruit, the bulbs have completed their cycles. Daffodils (Narcissus spp., USDA zones 3 to 9) also help shield crab apple trees and neighboring plants because they repel deer over the ground and gophers beneath the ground. If your grow culinary crab apples, stretch the edible landscape motif with bulbs which are both cosmetic and which create culinary plant parts, like garlic chives (Allium tuberosum, USDA zones 4 through 8) as well as tulips (Tulipa spp., USDA zones 3 through 9), which bear edible petals.

Ground Compatibility

Even in a sunny garden, ground covers which can manage some shade are a good choice. All these low-growing plants cover bare patches under the shadier parts of trees, in addition to sunny spaces between crab apples and their neighbours. Periwinkle (Vinca minor, USDA zones 4 through 9), mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus, USDA zones 4 through 9) and liriope (Liriope spp., USDA zones 6 through 10) fall into this group. When you have deep shade behind your crab apple trees, then think about hostas or ferns (hardiness zones fluctuate). On the other hand, patches in front of or between the trees and their neighbors which consistently get sunlight might benefit from perennial white clover (Trifolium repens, USDA zones 4 through 8 ), which leads nitrogen to the backyard while behaving as a living mulch.


A number of flowering perennials will grow either in sunlight or under the dappled shade cast by the crab apple tree. Among them are daylilies (Hemerocallis, USDA zones 4 through 8) and bee balm (Monarda, USDA zones 3 through 10). Additionally, consider herbs, which add beauty to the garden while also attracting beneficial insects. In many cases, herbs also have culinary or scent-crafting price. This collection includes lavender, yarrow, dill, coriander, Queen Anne’s lace and mint varieties. Many herbs have been amenable to a number of growing states and hardiness zones, especially those found in Mediterranean climates.

Shrubs and Trees

Choose shrubs and trees which are either higher in stature to your crab apple, or somewhat briefer. Dwarf fruit trees like pears, apples and plums (zones vary depending on variety and species) are good choices, as are a mixture of additional ornamental and culinary crab apples. The shrubs butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) and fushia (Fuchsia magellanica) — both USDA zones 6 through 9 — are not only ornamental but attract pest-eating birds. These shrubs thrive in sun or partial shade. For planting in the shade of crab apple and other trees, think about dwarf azaleas (Rhododendron atlanticum, USDA zones 5 through 9) and dwarf hollies (Ilex cornuta “Burfordi,” USDA zones 7 through 9), which can manage partial shade.

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How to Level a Front Yard

A bumpy, uneven front yard looks bad and is unpleasant to walk or sit on. Methods for leveling a front yard have improved over the years; Based on This Old House, it was industry standard to pour soil, sand and compost onto old sod over the lower parts of a yard, using enough dirt to level it. However, today’s more efficient procedures make it possible for homeowners to save their sod and put it to use right out on the leveled yard.

Eliminate existing sod with a sod cutter. Roll the sod and shop out of the way so that you can replace it later. Rent a sod cutter from your hardware store or home and garden supply facility.

Till the yard to turn the soil. Use an erect hand tiller on wheels.

Mix topsoil with sand and compost in a ratio of 4 parts topsoil, 1 part compost and one part sand; compost aids plant growth and sand improves drainage.

Apply dirt mixture to the yard until the bottom aspect of the ground is even with the highest part. Fill holes and cover bumps on the highest part of the yard. Dump the dirt on the yard by means of a wheelbarrow, or for large regions, drive a truck filled with the soil mixture around the yard and apply with a scoop.

Even the dirt with a dirt rake. Make the surface level and smooth. Spray the area with with only enough water to moisten the soil.

Roll sod back in position over the new soil or spread new grass seed.

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How to Plant Blueberry Shrubs

The secret to growing healthy, heavily generating blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) Shrubs lies in replicating the same conditions they relish from the wild. Like rhododendrons, azaleas (Rhododendron spp.) Along with other Heath (Ericacea) family shrubs, strawberries need moist, well-drained, rich acidic soil. They like full sun but endure in warm, dry summer climates. Blueberries put fruit only where winter temperatures drop to 45 degrees Fahrenheit or lower for a decent, variety-dependent number of hours. For Mediterranean climate gardeners, southern highbush (V. virgatum) or rabbiteye (V. ashei) lemons as well as their hybrids are more suitable choices than northern highbush (V. corymbosum) shrubs.

Prepare a planting bed in sunlight. Plant your blueberries in autumn, so they will gain from cold temperatures and winter rains while establishing. Spread a 3-inch layer of equivalent components decomposed, Ligna redwood bark and organic compost over the bed. Till the top 8 inches of soil to include the drainage-improving amendments. The bark and compost also maintain perspiration and provide nutrients as they decay.

Space your planting holes 6 feet apart for personal specimen shrubs or 2 1/2-feet apart for a blueberry hedge. Dig the holes to the same thickness three times the diameter of the shrubs’ containers, with their sides sloping inward so that their foundations are slightly broader than the root balls.

Grip a blueberry shrub by its base, invert its container and gently slide it totally free. Inspect the main ball for compacted or encircling roots. Carefully separate attached roots with your hands. Cut roots girdling the ball with pruning shears.

Center the Ninja, roots spread, in the hole with the surface of its origin ball extending 1/4 into 1/2 inch above ground level. Begin filling the hole with the amended dirt, isolating large clods and firming around the roots with your hands to eliminate air pockets as you work.

Cover the root ball with soil till you arrive at the edge of the hole. Pile more soil around the exposed roots. Water the blueberry deeply and slowly until the root ball is soaked.

Repeat the above steps for each shrub. When all the blueberries are planted and watered, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of acidic mulch, such as pine straw or softwood sawdust, over the planting bed. The mulch discourages weeds and soil-moisture evaporation.

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Kids Information on Willow Trees

Though you might think about willow trees mainly as interesting-looking plants that sway in the end, there are a whole lot of interesting facts concerning these trees you might not have realized. Willows possess their own unique look and special care needs. Even though you might be most familiar with weeping willows (Salix babylonica), that might be found in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 2 to 9, this is not the only sort of willow tree you might find growing in a friend’s garden.

Willow Care

Willow trees are species of the Salix genus, pronounced “Say-licks,” and require special care, exactly like any plant. In the event that you should grow a willow tree in the backyard, it might need full sunlight or light shade, meaning it needs to be planted away from your house or other bigger trees which may block out sunlight. Willow trees like moist soil, so they grow very well near bodies of water, such as streams. As an alternative, you can water them to keep them healthy.

Willow Sicknesses

Similar to you and your pals, trees can get ill, too. If you see something on a willow tree that does not appear normal, tell an adult so that you can assist the tree return to good health. Trees that are sick might have a white powdery coating on their leaves, also called powdery mildew. Very similar to when you see mold growing on a fruit, then this illness is brought on by a fungus. Willow leaves might also seem rusty and have places all over the years. This might result from another respiratory disease known as rust. Taking great care of willow trees helps them avoid coming down with sicknesses.

Interesting Willows

You probably imagine a weeping willow tree once you hear the phrase “willow.” These trees have an interesting shape with branches that droop down toward the ground and appear sad, which explains the reason why the tree is thought to be “weeping .” This type of willow can grow up to 70 feet tall and 70 feet wide. Corkscrew willow trees (Salix matsudana “Tortuosa”) have also an interesting look. These trees are smaller, measuring only 30 feet tall and 15 feet wide, but their divisions are twisted. You might hear someone call this tree a curly willow, instead, because of the divisions. Both weeping willows and corkscrew willows exhibit green leaves that turn yellow during the fall.

Animals That Eat Willows

Certain animals seek out willow trees since their food. While you probably will not see many birds floating through your garden to eat from the willow tree, in the event that you watched a willow tree in the mountains, then you might observe both small and large animals eating, also known as foraging or grazing, from willow trees. Larger animals include elk, deer, moose. These animals feed on the trees’ stems. Smaller animals, such as rabbits and grouse, eat out of the willow tree, as well.

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How to Plumb a Stackable Clothes Washer

Some apartments and cabins do not have the room to accommodate separate side washer and dryer units. For these installations, a half-width laundry compartment can house a stackable clothes washer and drier. In order for the components to function properly, they must be flat and plumb with all four feet securely on the floor to avoid rocking after making the links to the plumbing at the wall. You can plumb a stackable clothes washer in a few minutes with a few hand tools.

Connect the Units

Position the washer and dryer unit facing the laundry cabinet opening. Connect a washing machine supply line to the red connection on the back of the washing machine (sometimes labeled “H” for hot) using a set of slip-joint pliers. Connect the opposite end of the supply line to the left supply valve from the wall plumbing box and tighten the coupler. Repeat with the second supply line to the blue connection (sometimes labeled “C” for chilly) about the drier as well as the right-side valve at the wall. Slip the end of the drain line into the drain at the middle of the wall.

If the dryer is just a gasoline unit, place two or three wraps of thread seal tape around the gas connector at the compartment, then twist the gas-line coupler on the connector. Tighten the coupler having an adjustable wrench. Turn on the gas valve by rotating the handle counterclockwise until it stops turning.

Connect the power cord to the electrical socket. Turn on the cold and hot water valves.

Leveling the Washer and Dryer

Push the washer and drier into the laundry compartment. Adjust the position of the units so the compartment door can be closed without undermining the components, and so the washer and dryer doors could be opened fully without hitting the wall or even door.

Carefully push against the washer and drier unit to check for any wobble. If the unit stones at all, lower or raise among the leveling feet on the bottom of the drier with an adjustable canopy until the unit is solid and doesn’t wobble.

Put a level flat on the side of the washing machine. Raise or lower the toes on one side of the washing machine evenly until the unit is plumb side.

Position the amount flat on the front of the washing machine, and adjust the front feet of the drier up or down evenly until the unit is plumb front to back. Check the plumb on the side of the unit again to ensure it’s plumb on both sides.

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DIY Backyard Playground Equipment

In the tire swing to the old oak tree, to a sand box at the corner of the patio, a family-friendly yard with do-it-yourself playground equipment is limited only by available space, your budget and imagination. Designated play areas with age-appropriate structures and open space for free-play really are all you have to keep the kids happily busy for hours. Prior to getting out your hammer, however, consider putting pencil to paper and doing a small site preparation.


To help toddlers explore, consider building a two-sided, four-step stairway with a platform at the top and cover it with one-half inch foam, and then outdoor rug, making sure it stays solid from the grass and wo not tip over. Build a sand box and include buckets and shovels. Little ones enjoy playing in playhouses: build an open-concept structure with an open door to protect little hands, or build a tepee and cover it with outdoor cloth. To beat the summertime heat, build an outdoor shower within an arbor or pergola; just make sure that there is no chance of standing water.

Ages Three to Five

Kids in this age group will still play things from the museum group, but now you want to make it a little more challenging. Build a pathway together with hardened for riding a bicycle, tricycle and scooter. Build a 6-inch high by 5-foot long balance beam and a sturdy seesaw. Paint the side of a shed or your garage wall with chalk paint; include a sill and box to your chalk and erasers. Build an open-concept fort with a stockade that encloses a lookout platform. Consistently include a soft landing material, like rubber mulch or outdoor foam tiles, beneath any play structure 4 feet or taller.

Ages Six to Nine

This age group is learning about their environment, and about raising and growing plants. Build a raised or terraced garden to plants seeds and harvest create. Build a treehouse, fort or a climbing wall with ropes. Build a small workbench and outfit it with age appropriate tools, some wood, nails and screws. Numerous home-improvement shops have kits you can build with them, or you can create your own. Kids this age should have the ability to follow instructions and assemble projects with a little patience and advice from you.

Ages 10 to 13

Have your child help you build a more elaborate treehouse with a walkway, porch, roof, windows and a door. Build a putting green full of synthetic turf and teach your child about golf. If you have two sturdy trees at least 30 to 40 feet apart, then you can build a cable ride where your child grips a trolley device, lifts their feet and zips down a length of steel cable, stopping as the cable rises near the end of the line. For youngsters interested in skateboarding, consider building ramps or a small garden skateboarding park.

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