Category: Home Painting

Cracks at standup showers may be brought on by a person placing his entire weight on the bed of the shower as he stands up or by dropped items. If the crack isn’t treated immediately, it may split open, leading to potential leaks. Fixing the crack isn’t a time-consuming process, but you have to take drying time into consideration because the shower cannot be utilized until all program materials have fully dried.

Run the tip of a utility knife along all sides of the crack, to form a V shape across the crack’s length. Ensure that the thickness of the crack goes through the vinyl coating, stopping in the fiberglass foundation (the thickness of the crack will generally be between 1/16 and 3/16 inch).

Run a rag over the crack to remove dust. Use the sandpaper or handheld rotary tool with sanding fittings to smooth out the edges where the crack meets the plastic surface of the shower. Wipe off the sanding particles caused the rag. Apply nail polish remover across the crack using a brush, and then wipe it away with all the rag.

Put a small amount of fix paste into a mixing cup (enough to fully cover the crack). Add 1/4 oz. Of catalyst for each 1/4 oz. Of paste. Mix together using the little stirring stick. Follow manufacturer’s instructions if they change from them.

Use the mixture over the surface of the crack using the larger stirring rod. Ensure that the mixture slightly overfills the crack. Allow 60 minutes for the substance to fully dry (for faster drying time, run the hot-air flow of a hair dryer over the mixture).

Sand down and up along the dried mixture until it fits the smooth surround of this shower’s plastic coating. Run your fingertips over the crack to ensure it is smooth.

Apply a little quantity of the rubbing compound to a clean rag, and then rub up and down the crack using the rag till it fully blends in with the surrounding area.

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Vinyl functions as a durable floor covering which is resistant to spills and stains, provided that the offending material is washed straight away. This type of flooring is more prone to scuffs and marks from rubber shoe soles and shoe shine, however. An eraser comes to the rescue to remove shoe shine, rendering the floor mark-free once more.

Erase People Scuffs

An eraser made to wipe away pencil marks also erases shoe shine scuffs on vinyl flooring. First, blot the area with a paper towel in the event the scuff is fresh, since a few of the polish may transfer over to the paper. Rub gently using the paper towel, rubbing at the direction of this scuff, rather than over it, to avoid spreading it. Once you’ve removed as much as you can using the paper towel, rub the region with a large eraser until the scuff evaporates. If a little shoe polish residue remains, pour a small amount of baby oil above the mark, then let it sit for 20 minutes or so, then rub away with a soft cloth.

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The best way to repair a hole in a leaky vinyl air mattress is using a repair kit created for the item, but warm glue can stop the air leakage and temporarily repair the harm in a crisis. After locating the hole in the bed, it is ideal to use a low-temp glue gun to stop damage to the plastic, which is a form of plastic.

Inflate the bed as much as you can and listen for escaping air around the seams and all over the surface to find the hole. If you can’t hear any escaping air, dip a kitchen sponge into a soapy water solution and then rub the sponge gently above the mattress surface, then starting with the seams, then to observe where bubbles form. Wipe the bed dry using a soft cloth and mark the hole using a bit of tape or a marker.

Insert a glue stick into a low-temp glue gun. Plug the glue gun in and allow it to fully heat up. Remove any tape from the hole at the air mattress in the event that you used it to mark the spot.

Squeeze the face of this glue gun and gently put a small dab of hot glue over the hole to temporarily patch it up.

Allow the hot glue to fully dry before using the air mattress again.

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Birds like potable Water over themselves to cool down on warm summer days while cleaning dust and dirt off their masks. Should they like to frolic on your fountain, steer clear of the harsh chemicals found in many business lime removers. These can harm the birds as they bathe. Instead, stick to a few more natural ways to eliminate the limescale deposits, which often appear as chalky white or light green streaks or lines on your fountain. Nearly any fountain material can suffer from mineral accumulation, such as copper, concrete, resin, fiberglass, ceramic and steel.

Altering the Water

A simple fix to help keep lime from building up on your own fountain will be to change the water you use. Water from the tap contains antioxidants which can lead to limescale deposits, but draining the reservoir and replacing the water using distilled water can stop the accumulation. Distilled water also will help keep other regions of your fountain clean, like the pump and tubes.

Scrub-a-Dub-Dub

If you are able to wash out the fountain frequently, like every few weeks, utilizing a nylon-bristled scrub brush may be all you need. The brush lets you scrub any lime accumulation before it can become a problem, but only as long as the deposits aren’t overly thick. Consistent cleaning, even if you don’t see any lime, can make sure it doesn’t become a problem. In addition, it will help remove algae from the sides. Keep away from hard-bristled brushes that could scratch the finish on your fountain.

Rubbing With Vinegar

When you must remove significant limescale buildup without undermining the birds that like to dip on your fountain, use household distilled white vinegar. If you drained the fountain before cleaning, use a diluted mixture of 1 part vinegar into 9 parts water. When there’s still water at the basin you are cleaning, only pour some vinegar onto a soft rag and rub away the lime. It must dilute itself at the rest of the water. You may need to scrub the exact same area many times to remove the mineral deposits using the soft rag; without using an abrasive pad, the deposits can sometimes be stubborn. Abrasive pads are acceptable only on stone flats, like slate.

Avoiding the Bad Stuff

Avoiding harsh chemicals may protect the birds, but it may mean you need to scrub a little more difficult to eliminate limescale deposits on your fountain. Stick with a soft fabric for many fountain materials, and be insistent rather than switching to a more abrasive scrubber, like many dish sponges. Also avoid scrub brushes with metallic bristles that can scrape your fountain. Based on the fountain substance, the scratches may be nearly impossible to repair once they’re made.

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As durable as porcelain isalso the substance remains prone to scratches. Instead of replace the damaged appliance or item, buy a porcelain repair kit and then conceal the scratch. The repair won’t look exactly the same as the surrounding porcelain, but you can make the match close enough that few people will ever be able to tell it is there.

Pick a porcelain repair kit at a color that closely matches the object you wish to mend. If you know the manufacturer of the scratched object, you can contact the company for a kit which has a nearly identical color match.

Wash harassing items thoroughly using dish soap and water, and rinse well. Sinks may have soap buildup, and other things have debris or dirt, all which can may block how well the kit’s mend glaze adheres to the porcelain surface.

Sand the scratch quite gently with emery or even fine-grit sandpaper. The repair kit frequently supplies a little piece of sandpaper. Be careful not to sand beyond the scratch itself since you can damage the rest of the item. Sanding flattens the scrape, knocking down any ridges which might have formed on either side of the flaw.

Clean out the scratch using denatured alcohol to remove sanding debris.

Apply a thin layer of filler using the applicator that comes with the repair kit if you’re correcting a deep scratch — just one which gouges all the way down or into to the base material below the porcelain layer. Filler is not essential for lighter, more shallow scratches. Apply the filler in thin layers and then enable each to dry before adding another layer. Allow the final layer to overfill the scratch.

Level the stitch with a light sanding with emery or sandpaper.

Apply several light coats of glaze above the filler. Allow the glaze to dry completely between coats. Use glaze sparingly with each coat. Try to soften the borders so the glaze does not build up unnaturally.

Sand the dried glaze gently, then buff with a clean cloth.

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Common in many homes, concrete stoops are rather durable, but can crumble and become broken, ugly and even dangerous when exposed to high traffic, icy and weathering. Most damage, though, can be repaired without going to the cost of replacing the whole stoop. Whether the stoop just has a couple of cracks, the corners have started to crumble or an whole step has to be replaced, then do-it-yourselfers can restore the attractiveness and durability of the front stoop with the proper tactics and techniques.

Remove any loose concrete in the areas to be repaired. Use a hammer and chisel to chip away at the area until you can’t remove any additional concrete with no overly exerting yourself and all remaining cement is solid and intact. Sweep away the consequent debris and dust and then spray down the area with a garden hose.

Construct forms around the regions to be repaired using plywood. Normally, L-shaped types work best on stairs. Support and hold the forms in place with bricks or other heavy objects.

Combine the concrete mix with water based on the product’s directions. Stir using a scoop until the desired consistency is attained.

Apply bonding agent to areas being repaired with a paintbrush so as to create the optimum adhesion between the new and old concrete. Pour the concrete mix into the types and use a trowel to perform the mix into smaller regions and shape the cement where essential. Run a wooden float above the moist concrete to achieve as smooth a finish as possible.

Cover the area being repaired using a plastic drop cloth. Weight the drop cloth with stone or bricks to keep it in position. Lightly spray the newly poured concrete once daily while it cures. Refer to this product’s literature for heal time.

Employ concrete resurfacer to the whole stoop so as to create a consistent colour and texture. Mix the resurfacer using water based on the product’s directions and apply a thin layer using a wooden float.

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Concrete pavers are frequently the most practical and economical way to produce a backyard patio, driveway or walkway. Although those inexpensive gray pavers in the home improvement center may leave something to be desired, it is possible to alter the concrete’s shade without professional intervention. Acid stain — a combination of metallic salts, hydrochloric acid and water — is a cheap, safe method which may be carried out in a single afternoon. The stain absorbs into the concrete’s pores and also is available at home improvement stores in a variety of colors. Clean out the pavers correctly and protect yourself in the etching chemicals to make concrete pavers your neighbors will envy.

Spread a tarp in a well-ventilated area, preferable outdoors. Lay down the clean and scoop each one with a combination of warm water and a mild detergent. Work the soapy mixture into the pavers with a plastic bristled scrub brush to remove any surface dirt and grease.

Wash the pavers thoroughly with a garden hose. Allow the pavers to dry for at least 24 to 48 hours prior to continuing.

Wear a set of rubber gloves and a safety mask to handle acid stain. Slowly mix 3 parts stain to 97 parts water. Stir and add more stain until you reach a 10 percent concentration of the goods.

Apply the concrete stain with a paintbrush. Start by covering the upper surface of the paver with an even coat of the merchandise before continuing onto the sides, even if the pavers will be used as edging.

Allow the pavers to dry for at least one to two hours before applying a second coat, if needed to make a more intense shade. If you are delighted with the first coat’s color, it’s not required to apply any more.

Allow the final coat to dry for at least 24 hours before placing the pavers.

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Bathroom vanities are often manufactured from medium density fiberboard, but whether your white one is MDF, plywood or a different material, you may usually repaint it white or a different color without much trouble. Think about spraying the brand new paint, particularly if the vanity is MDF, because that is the very best way to generate a smooth, textureless finish. Whether you spray or brush, the bulk of the job is made up of preparation, such as disassembling the vanity, cleaning and sanding.

Obtaining the Vanity Ready

Removing everything from inside the vanity isn’t a requirement for painting it, but you’ll be able to work more readily and with less chance of contaminating your bathroom necessities should you do. Empty and remove all the drawers, and unscrew the handles. Place everything in a safe place. If you do not have room to line up the doors and drawers along the wall, then it is best to paint them in a different room. Cover the floor with plastic; tape hiding paper around the exterior of the cabinet, and you’re all set to start.

Cleaning and Scuffing

You do not need to take out the finish before painting your own vanity, but you do need to completely clean it. Use a solution of 1/2 cup trisodium phosphate per gallon of water, which will remove the flux live a bathroom fixture is very likely to collect. Rinse thoroughly with water and permit a lot of drying time speed up the drying, even if desired, by wiping the vanity down with a clean rag. TSP etches the current finish, but you should also sand the vanity by hand with 220-grit sandpaper to scuff it. This also knocks down any bumps in the old finish brought on by moisture.

Priming and Finishing

You should brush or spray a coat of primer before you paint so the new finish adheres properly without bubbling, dripping or separating. Scuff this with 220-grit sandpaper, then apply at least two coats of finish. If you spray, then each coat should be a wet coat, meaning that the surface should be glossy and even-colored when you’re finished spraying. If you decide to brush, use directly, even strokes which finish in the wet edge of the prior stroke. It’s best to start at the very top of vertical surfaces and work down; in this manner, it is possible to catch any drips as they form rather than have them appear after you’re done.

Adding the Extras

Your newly painted vanity will look its best with bright, shiny hardware. You might want to consider replacing the drawer handles and hinges, but if you soften them, it is possible to restore brass or polished brass ones by polishing them with brass cleaner and providing them a coat of protective clear lacquer. If you replace the hinges, then you’ll probably need new holes to get them. If you’ve planned ahead, you’ll have filled the old holes before painting. Drill pilot holes with an 1/8-inch drill bit, which is narrow enough to offer traction for most cabinet hinges. After carefully predrilling, rehanging the cabinet doors is a breeze.

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The acidic nature of ordinary white vinegar gives it an extraordinary versatility for cleaning. Vinegar liquefied grease and hard water deposits while disinfecting, therefore it’s an effective ground cleaner. It works so long as the Pergo company recommends it for cleaning their laminate flooring solutions.

Pergo Cleaning Instructions

The cleaning instructions provided from the Pergo business call for a solution of 1 cup of vinegar per gallon of warm water. You should not simply wet-mop this solution on the ground, though. Water may cause extensive damage to Pergo flooring when it seeps in the gaps between boards and soaks into the center. Instead, wring your mop out before washing, or, for an even safer cleaning process, wipe the ground down with a well-wrung rag.

Work in Sections

To avoid water damage, it’s important to wash the ground immediately after wiping it with a vinegar solution. This is easier to do if you work in sections, washing and drying one section before continuing on to another. Drying the ground also prevents falling accidents.

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