Month: April 2022

Bathroom renovation, on a cost-per-square-foot basis, is among the most expensive home construction jobs, and when an old toilet begs for replacement, the cost difference between a remodel and also a new addition is an important consideration. In most cases, renovation will be more economical than an addition, but the benefit of one option over the other isn’t always clear cut.

Total Cost

Generally speaking, the cost of renovating a toilet will be cheaper than constructing a new one in case the homeowner is able to retain the vast majority of the room’s construction, mechanical systems and finishes. The price of constructing a new room is much more than the cost of renovation if the inclusion alters the property’s footprint, makes significant changes to plumbing or electrical systems, or needs extensive replacement of fixtures and finishes such as flooring and wall coverings.

Fixtures and Finishes

Replacement of finishes and fixtures is usually a goal of a bathroom remodel, so in this area, the cost difference between a renovation and an addition is minimum. In some cases, however, the reuse of existing fixtures is possible. If the present bathtub is in good shape, as an example, it might be a good idea to keep it; replacing a bathtub will add labor costs to your remodel in addition to the cost of the bathtub itself. Refinishing a cast iron bathtub is also frequently a cost-effective option to buying a new bathtub.

Systems

Material and labor costs associated with plumbing systems are a significant component in the overall cost of a bathroom remodel or addition, and also the more changes that will need to be made to the plumbing, the more expensive the project will be. In a relatively minor remodel, where new fixtures are installed at exactly the same places as existing fixtures, the plumbing may need no renovation. Moving fixtures or adding new ones will add significantly to the plumbing expenses, and including a new toilet will, of course, require the inclusion of entirely new plumbing systems.

Environmental Impact

The setup of new, efficient fixtures will turn an old toilet into a more environmentally friendly room; several newer bathrooms and shower heads in particular are intended to use much less water than older versions, and replacing ineffective models can reduce the long-term cost of a bathroom remodel too. But replacing fixtures and rebuilding the toilet will create waste and refuse that will probably be taken to a landfill; in terms of waste production, a minor renovation generally less of an environmental impact than a new bathroom addition.

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Glass is the standard material for greenhouses, but with improvements in technology, several kinds of expensive plastic greenhouse coverings are available for commercial greenhouse operators and hobbyists. Some plastic materials are apparent, allowing full sunlight to enter the greenhouse, while other plastics are translucent to diffuse the lighting within the greenhouse.

Polyethylene Film

Polyethylene, or PE, film is the lightest solution for greenhouse plastics. It is available in large rolls which you simply cut to match your greenhouse’s frame. Manufacturer’s of polyethylene movie make different grades, based on the amount of years you can expect it to last. One-year movie is the least expensive, thinnest variety, and four-year movie is the thickest. Ultraviolet light fast degrades polyethylene movie, so select a movie with UV protection embedded in the plastic. Some polyethylene films have also chemical properties fabricated into them to reduce the amount of condensation on the glass. Others have the ability to reflect radiated heat back into the greenhouse, much like glass does. This makes the plastic movies more energy-efficient.

Polyvinyl Chloride

Polyvinyl chloride, or PVC, film has several of the same qualities as polyethylene film. PVC film is more expensive than PE movie, but you can expect it to last up to five years. PVC film is available in 4- to 6-foot widths. Materials utilized in the manufacture of PVC film have a tendency to work as a magnet to dust particles from the air. You’ll need to occasionally rinse the movie if you live in an area which doesn’t have regular rain showers. PVC plastic is available with UV protection and also you’ll be able to find PVC that reduces condensation.

Double Walled Plastic

It is possible to set up either PE or PVC plastic film in a dual layer over a greenhouse frame to make the exterior stronger. Should you use a dual wall of plastic film, you will need to use a fan to blow air between the two layers to prevent them in adhering to one another. Light transmission to your greenhouse through a single layer of PE or PVC is 85 percent. The addition of a second layer of plastic film reduces that to 77 percent.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate plastic film comes at a rigid format which makes it simple install on the greenhouse’s frame. Some polycarbonate is corrugated, while other products have 2 smooth outer layers which encase an inner corrugated structure, much like that of a cardboard box. Polycarbonate material allows around 91 percent of the lighting to the greenhouse. Polycarbonate is impact-resistant and durable, lasting around 15 years. A disadvantage of polycarbonate is its surface scratches easily.

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Attic fans draw super-heated atmosphere from attic spaces and vent it to the outside. While attic fans do not have an immediate affect on the heat inside living spaces, they do help alleviate some strain on air-conditioning systems. These fans function automatically through the heat of the day, supplying active air movement inside the attic once the home needs it most. Installation involves cutting holes in the home, putting electric connections, and doing some heavy lifting.

Fan Type

Choose which kind of fan you want for your home. Attic fans mount on the roof or in one of the gables. The principles of the way they function are the same. Both units draw cooler air from outside the attic — via soffit or other attic vents — and expel it into the outside through the fan opening. This creates air movement inside the attic space.

Cuts

Roof-mounted attic fans require the elimination of roof sheathing and shingles by cutting them using a power saw. Gable-mounted fans typically need minor expansion of the existing opening in case a gable vent is currently set up. If no vent exists, you must cut siding and wall sheathing to produce the essential opening.

Mounting the Fan

Roof-mounted fans come with a base made from plastic or sheet metal. The base sits on top of this roof and functions like both a mounting plate and roof flashing. Once the fan is set up, you can cover the base with roofing stuff as you would with any flashing. Gable-mounted fans need a good base, typically made from plywood, using a cutout for the buff. The plywood attaches to studs in the attic, and the fan attaches to the plywood. Some gable-mounted units arrive with a pre-fabricated metal base.

Electrical Hookups

An attic fan will typically need 4 to 5 amps of service. A conventional 15-amp dwelling circuit can handle up to 10 electric boxes that service a mild or electric outlet. Homes using a 20-amp circuit can handle up to 13 boxes. In case an existing circuit nearby cannot deal with the additional load of the attic fan, you might need to conduct a new 15-amp circuit into the space. The fan will also require electrical connections to power it along with the thermostat to control when the fan runs. If you’re not familiar with creating electrical connections or running circuits, then contact an electrician.

Safety Considerations

Your attic fan should have a firestat for part of its structure. This system closes down an operating attic fan when it detects extremely substantial temperatures. This is a security consideration in case of a fire. Should the attic fan continue to function during a fire, it could create a draft that would create the blaze to spread fast.

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A brand new thermostat can save you a considerable sum of money spent on heating and cooling bills each year. Most programmable thermostats enable you to set separate temperatures for different times of the day or night, automatically decreasing the amount you spend to heat or cool your home when no one is home. Some thermostats have a setting for every day of this week, or even a vacation setting so you are not over-spending on power costs while from town. Installing a new home thermostat can be completed in under an hour using a few simple hand tools.

Switch off the circuit breaker that offers power to the HVAC unit to that the older thermostat is connected.

Remove the cover plate from the front of the existing thermostat. Unscrew the two mounting screws holding the thermostat body onto the wall.

Unscrew one of those terminal screws onto that the wires are connected to the thermostat’s terminal block, and pull off the wire. Pull the cable through the back of the thermostat body and wrap a piece of masking tape wrap across the end of the cable creating a masking tape flag. Write the letter tagged straight over the terminal where you removed the cable onto the masking tape flag using a pencil. Repeat the procedure by removing each cable and labeling it using the letter from the terminal. Set the thermostat body apart after all wires are labeled and removed.

Slide the wires through the hole at the back of the new home thermostat physique, and position the body against the wall. Mark the hole locations throughout the body onto the wall using a pencil, then eliminate the thermostat body from the wall.

Drill a pilot hole through each of the hole places into the drywall using a power drill. Then tap a drywall anchor into each hole with a hammer.

Slide the wires back through the hole at the back of the thermostat body and position the body against the wall. Mount the body into the wall with the included mounting screws using a screwdriver.

Attach each cable with into this terminal corresponding to the marks on the masking tape flags. Wrap the cable around the proper terminal screw and tighten the screw with a screwdriver.

Install the batteries that came with the thermostat to the battery compartment, then mount the cover above the thermostat body.

Turn the power to the HVAC unit and then test the operation of the thermostat.

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