Yards of Cloth to Generate a Full-sized Bed Comforter

With a fluffy filler and a design-statement fabric cover, a comforter may be the middle of attention in a bedroom. Choose coordinating or contrasting fabrics for every side, and change sides as the mood strikes.

A Bit of Math

Measure in the desired bottom edge of the comforter on a single side of the bed up to the mattress surface, across to the opposite side, then down to the desired bottom border on that side. Record the dimension as the width. Measure in the desired bottom edge at the foot of the bed up to the surface and up to the head of the bed. Insert 16 inches to this measurement for your final length. Divide the final width of this comforter by the diameter of your chosen fabric, then rounded up the figure. Multiply this amount by the final duration for the running inches of fabric required for all the top and bottom of the comforter. Divide the total operating inches by 36 to the number of yards of fabric required. For instance, the math for a completed comforter 80 inches wide and 88 inches long made of 45-inch fabric is: 80 divided by 45 equals 1.8, rounded up to two. 88 inches times two, which equals 176. Divide the resulting number by 36 to equivalent five yards for all the top and bottom. Insert 1/2 yard for straightening or adjustments.

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Maintenance Free Deck and Porch Railings

Some substances used for porch and deck railings may be considered (or claimed to be) maintenance free since they don’t require regular painting or sealing like wood railings perform. Many non-wood materials may be called maintenance free, including aluminum, glass and stainless steel, except for the most part the term is used to describe composite and vinyl (or PVC) railing systems.


Composite and PVC railings are created primarily with vinyl. This means that they don’t rot and are relatively resistant to weathering from exposure. Their color is added during the production process so there’s no need to paint or stain the railings. They don’t splinter or have knots or other defects that are all-natural common.


Maintenance railing substances typically are more costly than standard wood substances, however they come without the expenses. According to 2014 quotes in”Remodeling” magazine, based on national averages, there’s a 74.3 percent return on investment for combo deck improvements, compared to a return of 87.4% for timber deck developments.

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Does the Stihl BR380 Leaf Blower Use a Gas Mix?

Outside blowing off leaves stihl leaf blowers are helpful for lawn cleanup. However, if the motor isn’t treated properly, the machine will blow. To keep a Stihl BR380 working following the documentation, for quite a while is recommended, especially when it comes to refueling. BR 380s should be refilled with a mixture of gasoline and oil.

Fueling Directions

Select the gas and oil attentively, when refueling. Gas should be unleaded and also have less than an score. For petroleum, use only quality engine oil. Stihl urges a gas to oil ratio of 50 to 1 to get optimum results, meaning 1 gallon of gas for every 2.6 fluid ounces of oil. Mix thoroughly and just combine fuel. Add the oil into the mixing container first, and then add the gas.

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The Way to Acquire a Burnt-Grease Smell Out of a Kitchen

Fried foods are a delicious treat, but may cause an overwhelming odor of burnt grease in the kitchen. If not promptly treated, the stubborn odor lingers for days, finally migrating to other rooms in your home. While air freshening sprays deliver a burst of scent, they just mask bad smells. A couple of techniques permanently remove the noxious smell of burnt grease for a fresh and comfortable kitchen environment.

Eliminate the Evidence

Many men and women don’t realize that awful smells are not included solely to the food and grease. In order to take out the smell completely, you must also wash or dispose of items that came into contact with the cooking grease. Wash utensils and dishes which may be harboring grease residue. Towels and oven mitts might have absorbed the scent; launder these instantly in hot water. Even if your trash can has a lid, the smell of burnt grease may permeate the atmosphere. After cooking with oil, then remove any trash containing paper towels and napkins that came into contact with the cooking oil.

Nature’s Method

Fill a saucepan with 1 part water to 4 parts white vinegar. Simmer for at least 15 minutes permitting the vinegar to absorb and remove the smell of burnt grease. If you’re preparing food with oil, then use this technique whilst brushing as a preventive step. Smelly oil particles may fill the atmosphere in addition to land on walls, furniture and upholstery. Fill a spray bottle with the mixture and use it to spritz the atmosphere and any nearby upholstery. Use a microfiber cloth or clean sponge to wipe down upholstery and hard surfaces — such as countertops and cabinets — using the vinegar solution. Repeat until the smell is gone. Baking soda is another effective absorbent material. Fill out a couple cups with 1 cup of baking soda and set them around the kitchen to deodorize the room. In a pinch, place a piece of charcoal in a brown paper bag and allow it to sit close where scents are occurring.

A Herbal Remedy

While the scent of vinegar dissipates during the boiling process, some people today prefer to fill their houses with different scents. Begin the same way by boiling water on the stove and add a teaspoon of vanilla extract or essential oil such as eucalyptus, lavender, chamomile, jasmine or honey. Let it simmer for 30 minutes to an hour and your kitchen will be infused with the attractive scent of your choice.

When All Else Fails

If the smell still lingers, a deeper clean might be in order. Pull out the oven and stove to test for grease between cabinets and appliances, in addition to on the sides of themselves. Make sure you have all windows and a door open when cleaning the kitchen in order to promote the circulation of fresh air. Use the exhaust fan or another portable fan that’s handy.

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How to Clean Lime Scale on Fiberglass Showers

If you’ve got hard water, you’re probably knowledgeable about calcium carbonate, also called lime scale. This greenish-white buildup can clog your showerhead and leave spots on the shower door. Attempting to scrub lime-scale buildup off a metallic shower may be an exercise in frustration, because the mineral deposits are very hard. While you can purchase commercial products intended for removing lime-scale deposits, milder acidic cleansers may perform the job without the toxicity.

Vinegar or Juice

Mix 1/2 cup lemon or lime juice, or white vinegar using 1/2 cup warm tap water in a spray bottle.

Spray the lime-scale stains generously using the solution. Allow it to sit for at least one hour, spraying every 15 minutes to maintain the deposits moist.

Scrub the shower using a scrub brush or scrubbing sponge, spraying as required. If needed, scrub tight spots and fixtures using a toothbrush.

Rinse the bathtub with water and dry it using a squeegee or towel.

Vinegar and Baking Soda

Spray tough lime-scale stains using full-strength white vinegar.

Permit the vinegar to sit for at least half an hour, then respraying each 15 minutes if required to keep the surface moist.

Sprinkle baking soda over the stain.

Scrub the area with a scrub brush or damp scrubbing sponge, sprinkling on additional baking soda as required.

Rinse the bathtub with water and dry it using a squeegee or towel.

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The way to Get Permanent Marker Stains Off of a Polyester Fiber Couch

Created in several different upholstery blends, polyester fiber provides many benefits when woven with other materials. This synthetic material resists stains, stretching, many substances, wrinkling, mildew, heat and abrasion. It dissolves readily with water, but a few stains are not readily removed using soap and water alone. If you become permanent marker stains in your polyester fiber couch, resins from the ink cause the pigments to bind into the stuff. It’s possible to remove it from the couch without damaging the polyester using a typical solvent.

Dab the stain with rubbing alcohol on a fabric, or spray it with an very clear aerosol hairspray.

Combine 1 tablespoon of white vinegar, 1 tablespoon of mild dish detergent and 2 to 4 cups of warm water in a container. Alternately, use 1 part white vinegar and 2 parts warm water.

Dip a cloth into the solution and stain the permanent marker stain. Keep blotting the stain using the solution every five minutes till 30 minutes is up.

Dampen a clean cloth with cool water, and blot the stained place to rinse. Blot with a dry cloth to absorb any surplus water. If the stain is not completely gone, then continue with the next step.

Mix 1 or 2 tablespoons of plain ammonia and one teaspoon of mild dish detergent to 2 cups of warm water in a container.

Dip a cloth into the solution and dab the stain to apply the solution. Let it sit for 30 minutes, reapplying as needed to keep the stain moist.

Rinse the cleaned area with a cloth dampened with cool water, and blot any excess water with a dry cloth. Let it air-dry.

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What Could You Use in an Outdoor Fountain to Keep the Lime Away and Not Kill the Birds?

Birds like potable Water over themselves to cool down on warm summer days while cleaning dust and dirt off their masks. Should they like to frolic on your fountain, steer clear of the harsh chemicals found in many business lime removers. These can harm the birds as they bathe. Instead, stick to a few more natural ways to eliminate the limescale deposits, which often appear as chalky white or light green streaks or lines on your fountain. Nearly any fountain material can suffer from mineral accumulation, such as copper, concrete, resin, fiberglass, ceramic and steel.

Altering the Water

A simple fix to help keep lime from building up on your own fountain will be to change the water you use. Water from the tap contains antioxidants which can lead to limescale deposits, but draining the reservoir and replacing the water using distilled water can stop the accumulation. Distilled water also will help keep other regions of your fountain clean, like the pump and tubes.


If you are able to wash out the fountain frequently, like every few weeks, utilizing a nylon-bristled scrub brush may be all you need. The brush lets you scrub any lime accumulation before it can become a problem, but only as long as the deposits aren’t overly thick. Consistent cleaning, even if you don’t see any lime, can make sure it doesn’t become a problem. In addition, it will help remove algae from the sides. Keep away from hard-bristled brushes that could scratch the finish on your fountain.

Rubbing With Vinegar

When you must remove significant limescale buildup without undermining the birds that like to dip on your fountain, use household distilled white vinegar. If you drained the fountain before cleaning, use a diluted mixture of 1 part vinegar into 9 parts water. When there’s still water at the basin you are cleaning, only pour some vinegar onto a soft rag and rub away the lime. It must dilute itself at the rest of the water. You may need to scrub the exact same area many times to remove the mineral deposits using the soft rag; without using an abrasive pad, the deposits can sometimes be stubborn. Abrasive pads are acceptable only on stone flats, like slate.

Avoiding the Bad Stuff

Avoiding harsh chemicals may protect the birds, but it may mean you need to scrub a little more difficult to eliminate limescale deposits on your fountain. Stick with a soft fabric for many fountain materials, and be insistent rather than switching to a more abrasive scrubber, like many dish sponges. Also avoid scrub brushes with metallic bristles that can scrape your fountain. Based on the fountain substance, the scratches may be nearly impossible to repair once they’re made.

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The way to Repair a Scratch on Porcelain

As durable as porcelain isalso the substance remains prone to scratches. Instead of replace the damaged appliance or item, buy a porcelain repair kit and then conceal the scratch. The repair won’t look exactly the same as the surrounding porcelain, but you can make the match close enough that few people will ever be able to tell it is there.

Pick a porcelain repair kit at a color that closely matches the object you wish to mend. If you know the manufacturer of the scratched object, you can contact the company for a kit which has a nearly identical color match.

Wash harassing items thoroughly using dish soap and water, and rinse well. Sinks may have soap buildup, and other things have debris or dirt, all which can may block how well the kit’s mend glaze adheres to the porcelain surface.

Sand the scratch quite gently with emery or even fine-grit sandpaper. The repair kit frequently supplies a little piece of sandpaper. Be careful not to sand beyond the scratch itself since you can damage the rest of the item. Sanding flattens the scrape, knocking down any ridges which might have formed on either side of the flaw.

Clean out the scratch using denatured alcohol to remove sanding debris.

Apply a thin layer of filler using the applicator that comes with the repair kit if you’re correcting a deep scratch — just one which gouges all the way down or into to the base material below the porcelain layer. Filler is not essential for lighter, more shallow scratches. Apply the filler in thin layers and then enable each to dry before adding another layer. Allow the final layer to overfill the scratch.

Level the stitch with a light sanding with emery or sandpaper.

Apply several light coats of glaze above the filler. Allow the glaze to dry completely between coats. Use glaze sparingly with each coat. Try to soften the borders so the glaze does not build up unnaturally.

Sand the dried glaze gently, then buff with a clean cloth.

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How to Fix a Concrete Front Stoop

Common in many homes, concrete stoops are rather durable, but can crumble and become broken, ugly and even dangerous when exposed to high traffic, icy and weathering. Most damage, though, can be repaired without going to the cost of replacing the whole stoop. Whether the stoop just has a couple of cracks, the corners have started to crumble or an whole step has to be replaced, then do-it-yourselfers can restore the attractiveness and durability of the front stoop with the proper tactics and techniques.

Remove any loose concrete in the areas to be repaired. Use a hammer and chisel to chip away at the area until you can’t remove any additional concrete with no overly exerting yourself and all remaining cement is solid and intact. Sweep away the consequent debris and dust and then spray down the area with a garden hose.

Construct forms around the regions to be repaired using plywood. Normally, L-shaped types work best on stairs. Support and hold the forms in place with bricks or other heavy objects.

Combine the concrete mix with water based on the product’s directions. Stir using a scoop until the desired consistency is attained.

Apply bonding agent to areas being repaired with a paintbrush so as to create the optimum adhesion between the new and old concrete. Pour the concrete mix into the types and use a trowel to perform the mix into smaller regions and shape the cement where essential. Run a wooden float above the moist concrete to achieve as smooth a finish as possible.

Cover the area being repaired using a plastic drop cloth. Weight the drop cloth with stone or bricks to keep it in position. Lightly spray the newly poured concrete once daily while it cures. Refer to this product’s literature for heal time.

Employ concrete resurfacer to the whole stoop so as to create a consistent colour and texture. Mix the resurfacer using water based on the product’s directions and apply a thin layer using a wooden float.

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Trees for Front Yards: Japanese Maple or Evergreen?

Trees are the bones of the front yard landscape. A tree provides vertical interest, shade and color. Evergreens stay green year around, typically a member of the conifer family such as pine or spruce. Japanese maple trees (Acer Palmatum) flip brilliant colors of crimson, gold and orange in the fall. Your front yard will be graced by either. Base your choice on many elements.

Focal Point

Both Japanese maples or evergreens could function as the focus of the lawn. Several types of maple transform a corner of the yard into a stunning riot of fall color. Pick a variety, such as coral bark (Acer palmatum “Sango-kaku”) which includes reddish trunks and stems for winter interest. Evergreen trees, such as blue spruce (Picea pungens), can also make a majestic focus.


Japanese maples grow from 15 to 25 feet tall, are considered small as far as trees go. Evergreen trees vary in stature. Tiny Tower Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens “Monshel”) grows slowly to 8 feet tall and then takes up to 30 years to reach 30 feet tall. The evergreen Douglas fir (Psuedotsuga menziesii) grows to 300 feet tall. In case you have a spacious yard of many acres you may think about putting the taller tree trees, while a smaller lawn would be inundated with only one giant conifer. Both Japanese maples and evergreens could be grown in pots. A pair flanking the front entry would welcome guests.


Green is exactly what you get with an evergreen, although there are a few varieties which are streaked with yellow, such as Juniperus chinensis “Torulosa Variegata,” or white, such as Tsuga canadensis “Albospica,” where the newest growth is white and gradually turns into green. Japanese maples are green throughout the summer and spring and change color in the fall. However, there are a range of varieties which don’t wait until fall, however are brightly hued out of spring. Ukigumo is a Japanese maple with green leaves streaked with white and pink.


Japanese maple trees aren’t typically used for solitude, fencing or to block unwelcome opinions. Evergreen trees fill the invoice if you would like to block the view of the traffic and street noise. The dense fine needles are set close together, forming a display that’s difficult to see through and stature is control by pruning.

Growing Requirements

Japanese maples prefer moist, rich soil and dappled shade in U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. Trees with green leaves may tolerate more sun. The growth is slow to moderate. Evergreen trees have a broader tolerance.

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