How to Find the Right Plants for Your Yard

A gorgeous landscape adds aesthetic value to your home. If planned correctly, it can also add precious outdoor living room. If you do not select the correct plants for your lawn, however, that beauty can come at a price: You’ll need to work overtime to keep your plants healthy and thriving. No matter how appealing or desirable the plant, if it wo not grow well in your lawn, it is not a good choice. Instead, plan carefully, and find plants which grow best in your climate and place.

Determine your U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones, which are defined by average low and high temperatures. Select only those plants recommended for your growing zones to ensure that they won’t be damaged by frost or heat. If you do not understand your USDA zones, look up an online interactive map, or check with someone at your local garden center.

Look carefully at your lawn. Be mindful of how much sunlight or shade covers the home. Look for electricity lines or other obstructions, like underground pipes, which may interfere with plant growth. Pick planting locations that get no less than a half-day of sunlight and do not have obstructions. Be aware of any hard areas like the ones with complete shade or very dry soil, so which it is possible to select plants that thrive in such circumstances. To locate these technical plants, then bring your notes into the garden center, and receive advice from its pros.

Select plants that fit the purpose of your lawn. If you’re trying to add curb appeal to your front yard, you may wish to select plants which bloom during the growing season. If it’s shade you’re after, start looking for a fast-growing shade tree. If you would like to stabilize a hill and protect against erosion, start looking for plants or vines which are frequently utilized for ground cover. Again, ask for assistance at your local garden or horticulture facility. Many universities have horticulture centres which are totally free to the general public.

Test the soil. Some soils are very acidic, while some are very alkaline. Plants often do much better in one kind of soil over the other. Soil testing kits are available at many retail garden centres. Choose plants that fit the kind of soil you have in your lawn for best results.

Look at your neighbors’ yards. Should you find a landscape that is especially attractive, consider asking your neighbor for hints as to what you can plant in your yard. If you are very lucky, your neighbor may be delighted to provide you with cuttings from the own plants at no cost.

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The way to Set Up a Mediterranean Buffet Table

The Mediterranean diet is not just healthy and sumptuous; the principal components of its own cuisine are magnificent when laid out on a buffet table. Mediterranean food is vibrant, welcoming and fresh. In addition, it lends itself nicely to your buffet because so many recipes arrive in bite-sized morsels. Provide a wide array of flavors, flavors and scents, and don’t forget to mix hot dishes with cold.

Linens and Utensils

Mediterranean colours tend to be wealthy and natural: terra-cotta, olive green, eggplant purple, wealthy bougainvillea red, and the creamy white of gardenias. Search for tablecloths and napkins that reflect these colours. Serving pieces should be made from thick, painted pottery and heavy glass. Utensils should be hardy rather than delicate to keep in keeping with the earthy charm of the motif. Roll utensils in cloth napkins and place them at the end of the buffet so your guests don’t have to juggle them as they pick from the heals you’ve set out.

Side Dishes

Among the hallmarks of the Mediterranean way of eating is that red meat is not the main course. Set out bowls and plates at the beginning of the buffet, but put the grains and vegetables next instead of the meat. Mix the earthy colours and different textures of brown-rice risotto and gnocchi with braised fennel, asparagus, spinach, sweet potatoes, eggplant roulades and other vegetable dishes in platters with serving utensils put in every one.

Main Dishes

Fish and shellfish are the basic proteins of the Mediterranean diet, so take advantage of each of the different ways they may be cooked. Offer grilled scallops and shrimp on skewers, tender cod rolled around new braised leeks, and salmon poached in lemon and wine. Offer paper-thin pieces of broiled steak together with braised chicken pieces for guests that are less daring concerning seafood.

Condiments

Put a olive oil, red wine vinegar and balsamic vinegar in glass cruets. Provide bowls of chopped nuts, freshly grated parmigiana cheese, crumbled feta cheese, and grinders with sea salt and mixed peppercorns. Toss several varieties of olives together and put them with the condiments, together with a generous bowl of Greek yogurt spiced with lemon juice and dill. Put napkin-lined baskets of thick artisan bread studded with garlic or cedar, and split into hefty balls for dipping into sauces one of the condiments.

Desserts

Fresh fruit is a staple of Mediterranean cuisine. Arrange bright pottery bowls of grapes, pomegranates, apples, bananas, and especially luscious figs for guests. Scatter small platters of baklava, biscotti, flan and tiramisu one of the bowls of fresh fruit for a special treat. Remember that the cappuccino, espresso and dessert liqueurs.

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The best way to Color Pavers

Concrete pavers are frequently the most practical and economical way to produce a backyard patio, driveway or walkway. Although those inexpensive gray pavers in the home improvement center may leave something to be desired, it is possible to alter the concrete’s shade without professional intervention. Acid stain — a combination of metallic salts, hydrochloric acid and water — is a cheap, safe method which may be carried out in a single afternoon. The stain absorbs into the concrete’s pores and also is available at home improvement stores in a variety of colors. Clean out the pavers correctly and protect yourself in the etching chemicals to make concrete pavers your neighbors will envy.

Spread a tarp in a well-ventilated area, preferable outdoors. Lay down the clean and scoop each one with a combination of warm water and a mild detergent. Work the soapy mixture into the pavers with a plastic bristled scrub brush to remove any surface dirt and grease.

Wash the pavers thoroughly with a garden hose. Allow the pavers to dry for at least 24 to 48 hours prior to continuing.

Wear a set of rubber gloves and a safety mask to handle acid stain. Slowly mix 3 parts stain to 97 parts water. Stir and add more stain until you reach a 10 percent concentration of the goods.

Apply the concrete stain with a paintbrush. Start by covering the upper surface of the paver with an even coat of the merchandise before continuing onto the sides, even if the pavers will be used as edging.

Allow the pavers to dry for at least one to two hours before applying a second coat, if needed to make a more intense shade. If you are delighted with the first coat’s color, it’s not required to apply any more.

Allow the final coat to dry for at least 24 hours before placing the pavers.

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Different Pineapple Plants

Pineapple plants have been grown for their fruit and as ornamental plants within hot-climate landscapes. In cooler climates, they can be planted in containers and moved inside when temperatures begin to fall into the upper-50-degrees Fahrenheit range. The many varieties of pineapple plants developed for fruit are divided into four category groups. Additionally, there are hybrid pineapple plants cultivated only for ornamental purposes.

Pineapple Plant Similarities

Pineapple plants have been terrestrial bromeliads hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 12. They climb to a height of 2 1/2 to 5 ft and width of 3 to 4 feet with long, narrow, pointed leaves. Pineapple plants grow best in sandy soil that’s full of organic matter and drains very quickly. Full sun is preferable for fruit production, while partial shade promotes leaf.

Abacaxi Group

Abacaxi pineapple plants are most commonly developed in the Bahamas, Brazil and Florida. Pineapple plant varieties within this category aren’t commonly developed for commercial production because the fruit is too easily damaged. The fruit is sweet and hot, nevertheless, and easily harvested. Mature pineapples created by plants in this category generally weigh between two and 11 lbs. The “Sugarloaf” variety produces smaller pineapples that weigh between 1 1/2 and 3 lbs. Abacaxi pineapple plants have blue-green foliage and are disease-resistant.

Queen Group

Queen pineapple plants chiefly grow in Australia, the Philippines and South Africa. Pineapple plants within this category are smaller and produce smaller fruit that weighs between 1 and 6 lbs. The fruit is juicy and delicious but tends to be cone-shaped, which causes excessive waste if this variety is utilized for commercial canning. It will not keep well, and can be harvested for sale as fresh fruit. The leaf on these plants tends to be medium green, although the “Ripley” cultivar leaves have a reddish hue.

Red Spanish Group

The Red Spanish pineapple group usually grow in Florida, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Venezuela and the West Indies. These are inclined to be larger plants using very spiny gray-green or purple-green leaf. The fruit has a rounded form and generally weighs between 3 and 6 lbs, although the “Valera Amarilla” cultivar can create fruit that weighs up to 9 lbs. The fruit has great flavor and fragrance. It’s harvested commercially for canning and fresh fruit.

Smooth Cayenne Group

Grown in hot areas across the world, Smooth Cayenne pineapple plants tend to be more susceptible to infection than other kinds. On the other hand, the leaves don’t have the spiny advantages of different types. The juicy, flavorful fruit generally weighs between two and 10 lbs. The “Giant Kew” cultivar is an unusual member of this category, with pineapples that could weigh up to 22 lbs. Most of these pineapple plant varieties have been grown commercially for canning or sale as fresh fruit.

Ornamental Pineapple Plants

Gardeners grow ornamental pineapple varieties as landscape plants or houseplants. These crops sometimes create pineapples, but the fruit isn’t generally considered delicious. Ornamental pineapple plants grow to a height of 2 to 3 feet and width of 2 to 4 feet. The leaves might have spiny or smooth edges, depending on the hybrid or cultivar. They are generally green or gray-green using pink, yellow or white stripes running lengthwise the leaves up. Ornamental pineapples bloom occasionally, creating little red or deep pink blossoms that cover a thick stem in the center of the plant. The stalk might become a small pink pineapple after the plant finishes blooming.

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The way to Measure for Murphy Beds

Folding beds which disappear into cupboards can offer additional space in studio apartments or permit you to use 1 space as both home office and guestroom. Classic Murphy beds split into built-in closets, but modern versions often include their very own cupboards, so you don’t need a 1920s-style dressing closet in your room to install a Murphy bed. When you step for the setup, consider its height for ceiling clearance in addition to considering the typical dimensions for a bed.

Select the size and variety of Murphy bed you would like for the space. In addition to the typical twin, double and queen sizes, decide whether you want the bed to fold vertically or horizontally and whether you want the cabinet to include storage area on the sides.

Measure the wall horizontally where you intend to install the bed. It must be at least 47 inches wide to accommodate a twin bed you intend to mount vertically or 80 inches for a side-mount twin; 62 ins for a vertical full or 80 inches for a side-mount full; or 68 ins for a vertical total or 85 inches for a side-mount full. These measurements assume that you aren’t installing cabinet space. If you are, add the width of the side cupboards to the width of the bed itself, and inspect the entire dimension against the wall.

Measure from the ground upwards if you are installing a vertical bed to make sure the ceiling is high enough. Any room ought to be tall enough for side-mount beds. For a vertical twin or full, you need at least 82 1/2 ins; for a vertical queen, you need at least 87 1/2 inches.

Check the thickness of the cupboard if you are installing the bed to one instead of building a cabinet. The cupboard must be 21 3/4 inches deep for vertical beds or 20 3/4 heavy for side-mount beds.

Measure from the wall outside to the space to be sure you have sufficient space for the bed when it’s folded down. A vertical twin or full extends 85 1/4 inches to the space; a vertical queen goes in 90 1/4 ins; a side-mount twin extends in 49 1/4 ins; a side-mount full goes in 64 1/4 ins; and a side-mount queen goes in 70 1/4 inches.

Tape the dimensions of the folded-out bed on the ground. Move the remainder of the room’s furniture in the remaining space. Confirm it all fits and you have room to wander across the bed comfortably.

Confirm that the mattress will fit through all the doors and up any stairs essential to get it in the room. Measure the height of their doors and compare it to the width and length of the mattress. Be sure you have sufficient clearance to bring the bed to where you want it.

Look at your state’s building code to find out the window conditions for a space to be legal as a sleeping room. In California, the space must have a minumum of one openable window that leads to an exit route in case of a fire. The bottom window sill must be no higher than 44 inches above the ground; if the window is completely open, the opening should be at least 24 inches tall and 20 inches broad; the net clear openable area must be at least 5.7 square feet. To compute this area, multiply the height and width of the window in inches, then divide the product by 144. Measure the window in the room to confirm that it meets these criteria or the applicable criteria in your area.

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The best way to Squirrel Proof that a Bird Feeder Post

Tree squirrels can be interesting to observe as they scamper up trees and over telephone lines, stopping only long enough to daringly hop over obstacles. However, for birds reliant on bird feeders, these agile mammals often spell trouble. Squirrels may seize upon bird feeders, consuming the contents and running birds from their food sources. Squirrel-proofing bird feeders on articles can be tough, but there are several ways to keep squirrels from consuming seed intended for your feathered friends.

Provide squirrels with a different feeder stocked with foods they prefer to birdseed. Fill feeders with peanuts in the shell and cracked corn, or hang dried corn cobs on trees from bird feeders.

Trim back limbs on trees which are overhanging bird feeders to stop squirrels from launching from these branches onto the feeders. Eliminate anything which could function as a launching pad within approximately ten feet of the feeder or relocate your feeder from structures and trees.

Attach an 18-inch-diameter squirrel baffle — accessible garden centres — 2 feet below each of your bird feeders by snapping it around the pole so the opening is facing the bird feeder. Insert a moveable sleeve into the pole 6 to 8 feet above the ground to prevent squirrels from climbing.

Add a few tablespoons of cayenne pepper or red pepper seeds into the feeder to further discourage any squirrels which might have been able to outwit your obstacle course. Maintain your squirrel feeders transported to further distract these continual mammals from bird feeders.

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Homemade Heavy Duty Vinyl Floor Cleaner

That luxury vinyl floors is a stunning addition to your home, but maintenance can be a challenge. **Vinyl which endures heavy traffic requires an equally strong cleaning regimen** to store it looking bright and new. When a straightforward wet-mop will not cut it, then try specific routines to get a heavy-duty clean which will not dismay your environmentally aware side.

Practice Prevention

Place doormats at every entrance to your home, and ask guests to remove their shoes when they enter. **Sweep your vinyl floors at least once every day** to help remove debris before it becomes ground in. Wipe up any spills as soon as they occur, and put floor protectors beneath the legs of heavy chairs, sofas or tables which break in your delicate vinyl floors. Outfit kitchen chair legs with soft, felt covers to avoid their scuffing or scratching your flooring.

Concoct a Combo Cleaner

Based on [Bob Vila](http://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-clean-vinyl-flooring/#.VOJxY\_nF-oo), a simple and efficient means to remove heavy dirt and dirt from vinyl flooring comprises combining a solution of **1 cup distilled white vinegar and several drops of dishwashing detergent with 1 gallon of warm water**. Mop it on, rub it off and allow it to dry completely. This solution is acidic enough to loosen stuck-on dirt, yet gentle enough to maintain your floor’s factory finish. Add several drops of essentials oils or baby oil for fragrance and also raised sheen.

Tackle Various Stains

**Spray lubricants** such as the type you use in your garage to silence squeaky vehicle doors or loosen lug nuts may eliminate stubborn scratches on plastic. Simply spray some on a soft cloth, and buff the scuffed area soundly. For tenacious kitchen spills such as fruit juice or ketchup, use a glue made of **baking soda and water**. **Isopropyl alcohol** works on ink stains, and **mineral oil** eliminates crayon. Using these common household ingredients on event helps to keep your vinyl floors sparkling clean.

Never Use on Vinyl

Never use **abrasive scrubbing brushes** on vinyl floors as it will leave disfiguring scratches behind. Also take care to avoid using any cleaners that contain **ammonia** since they can damage your finish. Certain **commercial pastes, waxes and cleaners** can leave behind filmy buildups which are nearly impossible to eliminate also. They will leave your shiny luxury plastic seeming dull and distressed. If you resort to commercial cleaners, ensure they are safe for the type of flooring you’re tackling.

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How to Remove Dead Dry Leaves on a Calathea Makoyana

Though some call it cathedral windows and some call it the peacock plant, there’s little chance of anybody calling Calathea makoyana dull. Translucent, creamy-green foliage patterned using a darker, intricate leaves-within-leaves design gives the plant its own rose-window splendor. As if which weren’t enough, the design repeats in pinkish-purple on the leaf’s undersides. Regrettably, like the leaves of this poet Robert Frost once observed, “Nothing gold can stay,” cathedral windows’ foliage dries out and dies as it ages. Cultural problems have a similar effect. Removing the damaged or tired leaves and supplying the right growing conditions promotes vibrant new growth.

Eliminating the Leaves

Eliminate the old, dead or dry leaves from your cathedral windows once they occur. Use clean, sharp scissors to cut them away in the base of their reddish stems. To avoid spreading insects or disease, dip the scissor blades in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water between cuts.

Examine the remaining leaves for dead, brown tips or margins resulting from cultural problems. If you’re able to, trim the dead tissue without ruining the leaves’ appearance. Otherwise, remove the entire leaves, again disinfecting your scissors between cuts.

Determine which of the cultural practices are liable for the damaged leaves. In the wild, cathedral windows grows only in the hot, humid jungles of eastern Brazil. It tolerates outside life in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12, but does not succeed outside in colder areas without substantial pampering, though it might be grown as a houseplant.

Preventing Future Problems

Give cathedral windows a brightly lit location with no direct sun and a temperature consistently between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Immediate sun may burn its own leaves. To keep cold air from browning and curling them, move the houseplant from air conditioning vents in summertime.

Keep the growing medium consistently moist. Lack of moisture browns and shrivels cathedral windows’ lower leaves and also causes dark, brownish spots on its upper ones. After the top 1 inch of medium is dry to the touch, water the plant thoroughly until the surplus water flows from the container’s drainage holes. Use tepid, distilled or rainwater; fluoridated water also dries the leaf tips and edges.

Provide cathedral windows using at least 60 percent humidity during winter. At lower levels, its leaves often dry and brown at the tips. Place the pot on a shallow tray full of pebbles submerged in water to just below their surfaces. Replenish the evaporating water since it raises the humidity around the plant.

Fertilize your plant every three weeks from March through September and once monthly during the rest of the year. Salt accumulation from excessive pesticide browns the leaf tips and edges. Mix 1 tsp, or the maker’s suggested amount, of granulated, 20-20-20 houseplant fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and use it to replace a normal watering session.

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The way to Paint My White Bathroom Vanity

Bathroom vanities are often manufactured from medium density fiberboard, but whether your white one is MDF, plywood or a different material, you may usually repaint it white or a different color without much trouble. Think about spraying the brand new paint, particularly if the vanity is MDF, because that is the very best way to generate a smooth, textureless finish. Whether you spray or brush, the bulk of the job is made up of preparation, such as disassembling the vanity, cleaning and sanding.

Obtaining the Vanity Ready

Removing everything from inside the vanity isn’t a requirement for painting it, but you’ll be able to work more readily and with less chance of contaminating your bathroom necessities should you do. Empty and remove all the drawers, and unscrew the handles. Place everything in a safe place. If you do not have room to line up the doors and drawers along the wall, then it is best to paint them in a different room. Cover the floor with plastic; tape hiding paper around the exterior of the cabinet, and you’re all set to start.

Cleaning and Scuffing

You do not need to take out the finish before painting your own vanity, but you do need to completely clean it. Use a solution of 1/2 cup trisodium phosphate per gallon of water, which will remove the flux live a bathroom fixture is very likely to collect. Rinse thoroughly with water and permit a lot of drying time speed up the drying, even if desired, by wiping the vanity down with a clean rag. TSP etches the current finish, but you should also sand the vanity by hand with 220-grit sandpaper to scuff it. This also knocks down any bumps in the old finish brought on by moisture.

Priming and Finishing

You should brush or spray a coat of primer before you paint so the new finish adheres properly without bubbling, dripping or separating. Scuff this with 220-grit sandpaper, then apply at least two coats of finish. If you spray, then each coat should be a wet coat, meaning that the surface should be glossy and even-colored when you’re finished spraying. If you decide to brush, use directly, even strokes which finish in the wet edge of the prior stroke. It’s best to start at the very top of vertical surfaces and work down; in this manner, it is possible to catch any drips as they form rather than have them appear after you’re done.

Adding the Extras

Your newly painted vanity will look its best with bright, shiny hardware. You might want to consider replacing the drawer handles and hinges, but if you soften them, it is possible to restore brass or polished brass ones by polishing them with brass cleaner and providing them a coat of protective clear lacquer. If you replace the hinges, then you’ll probably need new holes to get them. If you’ve planned ahead, you’ll have filled the old holes before painting. Drill pilot holes with an 1/8-inch drill bit, which is narrow enough to offer traction for most cabinet hinges. After carefully predrilling, rehanging the cabinet doors is a breeze.

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